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Awkward climbing leads to a right to left angling crack. Massive Holds, great gear. Climbs like the latter part of Winged Mongrel but longer and more sustained. after turning the corner onto the face it saves a lot of rope drag to belay there. Then go up and right to the anchors.
25 feet right of Winged Mongrel.
Standard Rack, doubles of #2 and #3 BD wouldn't hurt. It will take bigger gear if you want to lug it up.
BETA PHOTO: Perfect tri-cam placement protects this funky sect...
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
No doubles necessary. A rack of tri-cams and nuts protects the traverse under the roof very well. There is an awkward placement (perfect tri-cam) right before you get to the big rest that starts the traverse into crux section.