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Routes in The Diamond
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Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Obelisk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Roger Briggs, Eric Doub, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 7,414 total · 70/month |
| Shared By: | hkennedy on Jul 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Eroica may be one of the best lines on the Diamond. The climbing is sustained, the rock is incredible and each pitch has just the right amount of spicy to keep your mind engaged. This is an all-time outing and one of the better adventures in RMNP!
P1. Climb the first 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route, and belay on a small ledge with 2 pitons just bellow a thin seam.
P2. Thought provoking 5.11 climbing with a mix of thin cracks and face climbing. Belay on a sloping ledge with solid cams about 25 feet below the obvious, right-facing corner above.
P3. 5.11+ stemming in a perfect right-facing corner with some of the best rock on the Diamond! It's nice to have a solid set of RPs for this pitch, as the gear is thin but good when you get it. In the middle of the corner, a 2-bolt station was added for the Honeymoon is Over. Skip this station, bust left around the corner, and face climb up brilliant rock to a fixed piton/bolt anchor.
P4. Climb thin 5.11- off the belay with very little pro options until a fixed piton about 25-ish feet off the anchor. Higher on the pitch, a bolt protects a 5.12- section that trends left. Belay on a natural anchor to the left in a small corner.
P5. Climb strait above the anchor until it's possible to head right into a flared crack system. A bit of a spicy section above the flared cracks leads to an incredible traverse left into the crux sequence (5.12b). It is pumpy climbing with no stopper moves, hang on for the ride! Once at Table Ledge, head right 15 feet, and belay on a small ledge.
P6. Climb start up cracks above and right of belay for 30 meters, 5.11c climbing with good pro.
P7. A long 5.10 pitch with mixed cracks leads to the top of the wall.
P1. Climb the first 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route, and belay on a small ledge with 2 pitons just bellow a thin seam.
P2. Thought provoking 5.11 climbing with a mix of thin cracks and face climbing. Belay on a sloping ledge with solid cams about 25 feet below the obvious, right-facing corner above.
P3. 5.11+ stemming in a perfect right-facing corner with some of the best rock on the Diamond! It's nice to have a solid set of RPs for this pitch, as the gear is thin but good when you get it. In the middle of the corner, a 2-bolt station was added for the Honeymoon is Over. Skip this station, bust left around the corner, and face climb up brilliant rock to a fixed piton/bolt anchor.
P4. Climb thin 5.11- off the belay with very little pro options until a fixed piton about 25-ish feet off the anchor. Higher on the pitch, a bolt protects a 5.12- section that trends left. Belay on a natural anchor to the left in a small corner.
P5. Climb strait above the anchor until it's possible to head right into a flared crack system. A bit of a spicy section above the flared cracks leads to an incredible traverse left into the crux sequence (5.12b). It is pumpy climbing with no stopper moves, hang on for the ride! Once at Table Ledge, head right 15 feet, and belay on a small ledge.
P6. Climb start up cracks above and right of belay for 30 meters, 5.11c climbing with good pro.
P7. A long 5.10 pitch with mixed cracks leads to the top of the wall.
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