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Reservoir Wall
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Ernie Used to Box 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,493
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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#4 section
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This seldom climbed offwidth might be just what the doctor ordered for you wide crack affectiano's. Start in a flaring tight corner with a loose flake for your feet and a hand crack in the back. The crack slowly widens as you grunt your way up the flare to about #4 Camalot size. Take a good rest in a chimney stance, pull around a bulge and then start the right angling traverse. Hands to fists to offwidth take you to the anchor.


Location 

Just right of Three Fools. An obvious wide crack in a flare that curves up and right after about 60'.


Protection 

This route requires mostly large gear up to a #5 Camalot. I would recommend 2 #2's, 3 #3's, 1 #3.5, 4 #4's, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5 these are all Camalot size's. Two bolt anchor at the end.



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Ernie Used To Box
Ernie Used To Box
right at the sinker thankgod hand jam
right at the sinker thankgod hand jam
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By Dave E.
From: washington
Jun 11, 2009

this thing is one of the funnest routes ive done at the creek. Asolutely Classic!!!

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 2, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I would say the first 60 feet of the crack is primarily #4 size, and only gets bigger near the chimney for a couple moves. I left a #4 at the top of the vertical crack, placed a #3 inside the chimney, and another #4 above the chimney. I recommend taking 7 #4 C4s, a 0.5 C4 2 #2s, 3 #3s, and a #5 for this route. I slung long all the pieces in the initial crack to avoid rope drag. An older 4.5 camalot is nice in the last 15 feet before the anchor (could take instead of a #4). This was my first off width lead, though, so a more seasoned off width enthusiast would probably feel fine with less. This number of #4 cams will let you leave 4 in the first 60 feet, one above the chimney, and two in the traverse crack. The traverse crack also takes the #2 cams and #3 cams. The 0.5 could go at the first big traverse move after the chimney. I had two 0.75 C4s (brought as recommendation from Bloom guide book). One fit at the start of the traverse move above the chimney. I tried to place a second one fully extended during the first big traverse move in a smaller crack, and it didn't fit! There is a #2 placement on the other side of the smaller crack where my 0.75 didn't fit, but the #2 takes up a really good hand jam slot...