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Erickson's Crack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 1,345
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jan 13, 2008
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Erickson's Crack.
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  • Description 

    Approach this climb with the first two pitches of On Ballet to the bolt anchor in the alcove below the chimney. You will see a mixed line with 3 bolts just to the right of the crack.

    This is a great line for those who enjoy thin hand cracks. It would be a four star pitch, if the climbing didn't degrade before the reaching the anchors. The climb starts with 3 side by side cracks. The crux comes in the lower section, which may be as hard as 5.10d for those with large hands. The difficulties ease to 5.10a/b when you reach a good hand jam. Finish up and right at the 2 bolt anchor on the mixed line to the right.

    A hidden gem....


    Location 

    This crack is located in the alcove above the 2nd pitch of On Ballet. It is the first crack to the left of the mixed 5.12 line with 3 bolts.


    Protection 

    Double set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of md-lg nuts, emphasis on the #0.5-1 cams.



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