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 ADVANCED
Area 37
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Park S 
A37 Crack Route T 
Bag of Sand S 
Balance of Power, The S 
Bizarre Ritual S 
Bolting The Molting S 
Branching Out S 
Cherry Pickin' S 
Cyclic Loader S 
Ergo S 
Fatigue S 
Frosted Mini Wheats S 
InBetween, The S 
Keardo S 
Leprosy S 
Los Gastones S 
Mini Wheats S 
Rain Dogs S 
Sending Data S 
Stewed Prune S 

Ergo 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Hagen Telg, Jason Halladay
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: hagne on Nov 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Although this climb might appear squeezed into the gap between Los Gastones and Branching Out it offers a mostly-independent line of mainly 11sh climbing. The route is named after a not very positive but extremely ergonomic left-hand hold just before the crux at the bulge. After the crux the climb shares the diagonal roof seam of Branching Out for a couple moves but continues up the seam to left until its end. From there the line takes a more or less obvious way to shared anchors with Branching Out. However, since the top section after the diagonal roof seam and bulge is not that obvious and the climbing not that exciting there is a separate anchor for this route at the end of the roof/bulge leaving the top section to those who can't get enough and may want to add some additional, but slightly contrived, climbing to the Branching Out anchors.

Protection 

Six bolts to its own anchor. For more contrived climbing, continue past the anchors, past another bolt, and to the anchors of Branching Out.


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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The difficulty of the crux can be greatly reduced by moving right to the "Branching Out" corner for a few moves which seems a reasonable way to go, but definitely a bit off the bolt line; I'd put it in the 5.11- range.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The contrived 5.12- crux can be avoided by going right at the bulge, as George suggests, to make a 5.11-ish line. But if you've done everything else at A37 (and the other Jemez areas are closed!) and you're looking for a new challenge, stay straight through the crux bulge for some interesting 5.12- climbing.