|h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Ask any climber what distinguishes the Gunks from other areas and the first thing they'll say is "the roofs!" That, or "the sandbags!" but you should look at the description of Coexistence for more info on that.
Erect Direction is a roof climb -- and one of my favorites at the Gunks -- right up there with The Yellow Wall, Carbs and Caffeine, and Fat City Direct.
The Erect Direction access trail is about 15 minutes walking from the Uberfall, and 10 minutes from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with problems/chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. Erect Direction starts at a hand crack on the left wall of this corner, about 20' left of the start of CCK.
P1: Climb the nice, varied hand crack to the GT Ledge. 5.8, 80'. This is a good solid 5.8 pitch on its own.
P2: Above you (you may need to move the belay to the left) is a massive roof system. Climb up juggy terrain to some powerful moves up a vague right-facing corner (5.10c, crux) to a cramped stance under a large roof. A few underclings to the right lead up into the massive, obvious right-facing corner with a bomber 0.75 Camalot. At the top of this corner, and below the biggest series of roofs, a cramped hanging belay is available, but I recommend running the pitch into the next one - this will require extensive backcleaning and lots of runners however. 5.10c, 70'.
P3: This is the crazy pitch on the route -- make sure you get to lead this! Trend left off of the belay via some finger tip buckets, then reach back over your head to a jug at the lip. Begin working your way up a series of outrageous roofs with jugs galore. Plenty of opportunity for cutting your feet loose, heel-hooking, and hanging from gear. The roofs can be tackled more or less directly, but the easiest path is to traverse slightly left along the lip of the first roof, then back right on the second roof. A short corner with thin gear leads to the top of the wall. 5.10a, 60'.
Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch, and scramble down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Alternately, walk left 50' and do a single rope rap to the GT ledge, then walk way right on the GT ledge passing the top of the first pitch and rap off a tree to the ground.
From: Spfld, Ma
Jul 4, 2006
All I want for Christmas is a "REALLY BIG" pair.
Nov 5, 2007
You don't need any big gear for the offwidth on P2. Bomber pro is available just below the first overhang, and then, if you are desperate, #0.3 small camalot placed to a shallow crack on the small face with good holds before you reach to the undercling in the roof.
Once in the crouched position, it's best to reach right and place a bomber nut in the crack at the bottom of the right-facing corner.
There is a hidden pin inside the crack on top of the open book on P3.
|By chris deulen|
From: Merriam, Kansas
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A #4 would fit perfect in the offwidth section, with a bomber nut just below it. Also, I got a great purple tcu in the roof seam. I thought this protected fine. The wild overhang just after the start of the 3rd pitch is amazing. Get on this thing and go for it!
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Absolutely brilliant, I owe a couple of belays to the friend who let me lead the upper two pitches. To me, this is the essence of Gunks climbing.
|By David Stowe|
Jun 2, 2009
Finally got on this climb and I loved it but found it to be the hardest 5.10 that I have done in the Gunks. I find Coex, Matinee, Graveyard and few others to be easier than the 2nd pitch on this. I also had the 3.5 camalot with me which makes the move into the off width very safe as it is bomber at the very top of the flare and really eliminates the necessity of getting gear into the under cling crack when you make the standup move. Instead you can peek around the corner and get in a good cam at the base of the right facing corner. Now that I know the climb it will go easier but that 2nd pitch will be hard no matter what. The 3rd pitch will be a fun jungle gym now that I know what is coming and know what gear to use.
Great Climb, maybe the best that I have done at the that grade. Highly recommended for anyone climbing at that level, you won't be disappointed.
From: Wayne, PA
May 24, 2010
Ok, I didn't lead this. But, every leader needs a follower right? I will never lead this climb! This is one of the hardest 10's I have ever followed. I am proud to have completed all three pitches without a fall or a hang. I think this climb is the epitome of "akward". It's awkward from the start to the finish, pushing you into body positions that are constantly off balance. Then, the P3 roof is super hard for a shorty. At 5'2" I had a VERY BIG reach to the lip of the roof. My feet cut and I finally was able to throw a heel and pull the roof. Kudos to all of you who have lead this insanely hard climb.
Jul 23, 2010
contrary to the aforementioned comments, this is a very reasonable outing with good rests. I only found one awkward move and the intimidating roofs above were sub 5.10 fo' sho! Get on it and punch it in the teeth!
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 20, 2011
The wildest route I've ever done! Has to be one of the best roofs in the world!
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Apr 9, 2012
I haven't done The Yellow Wall, so I can't say with certainty that Erect Direction is the best climb at the Gunks, but so far in my book, it is. All 3 pitches are truly stellar. The last pitch, while not of the gymnastic level of pitch 2, is just an amazingly ridiculous piece of climbing.
As for P2 - I got a no-hands rest...once. While hard, if done juuuust right it will feel like 10c, but if you're off by a millimeter tho....
Jun 15, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
3rd pitch can be a scary and/or quasi-dangerous 2nd if the leader doesn't think about placements and drag. Not a bad idea for whoever's following to have a prussik and sling on them, just in case.
From: Boston, MA
Aug 11, 2014
Bring a #4 for the first roof crux, and you'll be happy reefing on any hold through it! Not much worry about dead weight in the hard stuff since you get rid of the 4 before things get tough. Plenty of smaller placements just below in the roof, too, but the slab underneath the roof has lots of hollow-sounding blocks.
Outrageously awesome finale. Both feet up at your head?! C'mon!