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Erbanay
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 6
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Routes in Balin Wall
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Balin Goes to Chicago T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Erbanay T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Show of Shows T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Herb North Jr, Ray Ringle, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,266 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jan 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
From the gully walk out a small ledge to a dead tree (jan 09). Climb up the mixed flake/crack with plentiful gear to just under the roof, then traverse left 12' (past a hole with good big stopper and/or smaller full size camming unit) to a belay either below or above the roof. A variation climbs straight off the end of the flake and over the right end of the roof (also 5.8+). Be warned, if you go up 1/2 way through the traverse (above the pro hole), the moves are balancy and steep and could be harder than 5.8+. so the question then begs, go left to get the pro or simply pull straight up over the less than overhanging bulge. With proper runners, the variation from ground to summit can be done with one rope. We belayed above the roof in a 1-1 1/2" crack. There are a pair of older welded cold shuts at the top.
A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.
A short 45' rap off the back (2 bolts, chains) or downclimb can be done.
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