Eraserhead  5.12

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Type:  Sport, 55 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Kurt Albert 1980 Submitted By:  MPuser10840 on Jun 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The likely source of the name.

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Description 

This route is a classic, but due to its status it's been getting rather polished through the years. It is also rated 8+/9-, which is 5.12b, but it's a bastard of a route and might be a bit hard for 5.12b, so I am just rating it solid 5.12.
Start to the left and work your way up and right on good holds to the first bolt. Make sure your technique is clean and efficient because the climbing starts getting harder here (easy 5.11). Climb up past another bolt and to the third where the difficulty increases to hard 5.11 and traverses left to the 4th bolt where the crux (V4 boulder problem) is. The climbing after the crux is easy to the anchor. The route ends below the overhang.

Protection 

4 bolts + anchor