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Eraserhead 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: sqwirll on Jul 22, 2009
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Eraserhead is in the center of the picture.

Description 

A bouldery start leads to knob climbing and smearing. There is an anchor at about 35'. The route continues up to a second anchor at 70'.


Location 

50' left of Magic Fern.


Protection 

Bolts. A hand sized piece if climbing to the top anchors.



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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Oct 10, 2011

Probably best to do this in mid-summer. From 2010 through 2011, the seam midway up seeped almost all year (except mid-summer). This has been an abnormally wet period (perhaps due to La Nina), so it might be better in other years; however, the section does seem to be the last thing on the wall to dry out.