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 ADVANCED
The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

Eraserhead 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gordon Douglass, Keith Maas, Eric Wood 1989
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

A typical Millstone route, Eraserhead climbs a fun edgy wall, which is crossed by a pair of cracks. The cracks grant a reprieve from the thin holds.

Location 

The first route that climbs straight from the boulder field as opposed to the slab, just left of the arete.

Protection 

4 draws and a small rack for the pair of cracks. 2 bolts with webbing up top, bring extra webbing just in case.


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By Wally29
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 30, 2010

American Death Triangle was replaced 6/28/10 with cordelette
By dnaiscool
3 days ago

Stiffer than the grade...IMO... 5.11b/c... when compared to the other routes in this area. That techy crux at the second bolt is quite sequential and calls on some sporty foot movements on sharp, balancy fins.

You'll need protection for the route to supplement the bolts:
#3-5 RP
Doubles TCU #0-3
one each Camalot from #.5 to 2
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