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Dihedrals Area
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Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Core Shot S 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Incubator S 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Equipment Overhang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: E. Elaison, D. Raymond, FFA: Jack Roberts, D.McCarthy, 1976
Page Views: 5,969
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

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The crux... (2002)

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Description 

This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing.

Protection 

Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.


Photos of Equipment Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Gessner takes a whipper on Equipment Overhang...
Eric Gessner takes a whipper on Equipment Overhang...
1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 2) Black and White John and ...

Comments on Equipment Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 23, 2014
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

favorite lead on the wall
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 18, 2006

I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2009

David, I took that ride, and it's a long one. Thanks to whoever placed that bolt. You did a good job. Definitely doesn't let up even after you pull the roof.

Full 5.11 goodness.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.
By Quino Gonzalez
Nov 5, 2009

You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things donīt quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing.
By jack roberts
May 31, 2010

Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

you can get in at least 2 micros above the last bolt, and they're solid. i must have climbed up, and down 2-3 times before committing to those last moves!
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 17, 2011

One of the best routes of the grade in LCC. Don't bother placing gear above that 2nd bolt. It will only pump you out and make you fall. Great rests throughout.
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The final bolt's nut is loose and could use a tighening with some glue to prevent it from loosening again. I think it has loosened due to the crossloading force (to the right) of those who fall on toprope or lower off on the climb. The bolt hanger twists counter clockwise when loaded in this situation and then the leader corrects it each time it is lead. The glue that once held it stationary has broken. The result is a potential hazard on a well used route.
By Dean Raynes
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 5, 2013

Great climb, I agree that this is a good climb to get into the grade, its 5.9+ sustained but only a couple moves at 5.11. And dont put a piece above the second bolt just commit, make the move, and stand up on good feet.
By choppinBolts
Sep 17, 2014

Another comfortable climb, thanks to fixed pro. So is it a trad climb then? Maybe the bolts were placed traditionally, but what the heck? There are places for gear along the way. They are spaced out, and there is fall potential, but the climb could be done safely without the fixed protection. Is climbing meant to be comfortable? Part of the valuable problem solving climbing offers is how you're going to manage the danger. This climb is unarguably a classic!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 17, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What exactly does "maybe the bolts were placed traditionally" mean? On lead by hand?? You do realize that when this line went up and was freed (early 70s) the "places for gear along the way" weren't exactly stellar placements for nuts and hexes? The bolt was necessary at the time. It may be somewhat superfluous now but you may want to consider the context in which it was placed and recognize its historical purpose... I guarantee the dudes who placed that hardware understood the mind game of managing danger better than you ever will.
BTW, did you clip the bolt?
By JimG
Sep 17, 2014

Yeah, Jack Roberts was such a pussy back in 1976. Nice guy with an impressive climbing career. Too bad he was killed a couple of years ago ice climbing.
By bsmoot
Sep 18, 2014

Here's a little history back in the '70s about the bolts.

Kim Miller began working on the FFA, mid-'70s. There were NO bolts on the route at the time. He freed it close to the same time Roberts freed it. He also said:

"After this, Mark Ward put a bolt in at the crux first move, left of the crack. He and I had both ripped pieces out from that area so added a bolt. I put a great Lost Arrow pin in at the roof before the final lie back. This was later - way later - replaced with another bolt."
By choppinBolts
Sep 23, 2014

Well cool. Thanks for the history. I'll leave my comment up and continue to look foolish so other people can read it and perhaps gain perspective like I did. I'll try and research bolts before speaking in the future. Just trying to encourage a traditional ethic of climbing.