Equipment Overhang 5.11a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | FA: E. Elaison, D. Raymond, FFA: J. Roberts, D.McCarthy, 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005 |
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The crux... (2002)
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing.
Protection Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.
| Comments on Equipment Overhang |
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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| favorite lead on the wall |
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move. |
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 18, 2006
| I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too. |
By Price
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2009
| David, I took that ride, and it's a long one. Thanks to whoever placed that bolt. You did a good job. Definitely doesn't let up even after you pull the roof.
Full 5.11 goodness. |
By Erik S. Gillis
Sep 6, 2009
| I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher. |
By Quino Gonzalez
Nov 5, 2009
| You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things donīt quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing. |
By jack roberts
May 31, 2010
| Just saw this.
Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| you can get in at least 2 micros above the last bolt, and they're solid. i must have climbed up, and down 2-3 times before committing to those last moves! |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 17, 2011
| One of the best routes of the grade in LCC. Don't bother placing gear above that 2nd bolt. It will only pump you out and make you fall. Great rests throughout. |
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| The final bolt's nut is loose and could use a tighening with some glue to prevent it from loosening again. I think it has loosened due to the crossloading force (to the right) of those who fall on toprope or lower off on the climb. The bolt hanger twists counter clockwise when loaded in this situation and then the leader corrects it each time it is lead. The glue that once held it stationary has broken. The result is a potential hazard on a well used route. |
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