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Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
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Lisa's Shoulder T 
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Stem the Tide S,TR 

Equipment Overhang 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: E. Elaison, D. Raymond, FFA: J. Roberts, D.McCarthy, 1976
Page Views: 5,468
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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The crux... (2002)

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This is the route roughly in the center of the main wall, easily spotted with the roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a face climbing crux, protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. But once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared buttcrack excitement. This is a great route for someone wanting to break into 5.11 trad climbing.


Stoppers and cams to 3", two bolts.

Photos of Equipment Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Gessner takes a whipper on Equipment Overhang 5.11a
Eric Gessner takes a whipper on Equipment Overhang...
1) <a href='/v/half-a-finger/105740039'>Half-A-Finger</a> 5.9+ <br />2) <a href='/v/black-and-white-john-and-mary/105741449'>Black and White John and Mary</a> 5.10c <br />3) <a href='/v/equipment-overhang/105741164'>Equipment Overhang</a> 5.11a <br />4) <a href='/v/lisas-shoulder/105740042'>Lisa's Shoulder</a> 5.9R <br />5) <a href='/v/satans-corner/105740510'>Satan's Corner</a> 5.8
BETA PHOTO: 1) Half-A-Finger 5.9+
2) Black and White John and Mary 5.10c
3) [[...

Comments on Equipment Overhang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 5, 2013
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

favorite lead on the wall
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would disagree with the assertion that this is a great 5.11a break in route. It's a great route, it is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly straight-forward. At least half of this route is sutained hard 5.10 climbing. A green Metolius helped me commit to the finishing move.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 18, 2006

I missed whatever pro might have been available after that second bolt definitely whimpering by the time I finally got to the chains. I felt so close to taking that big ride out into space, but I didn't. Great route, I fell once at the crux, so didn't quite get the onsight. It was my first 5.11 trad lead, I thought it was a reasonable break in route, the only .11 climbing was protected well by that bolt, but definitely a lot of .9-.10 climbing on the route too.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
May 6, 2009

David, I took that ride, and it's a long one. Thanks to whoever placed that bolt. You did a good job. Definitely doesn't let up even after you pull the roof.

Full 5.11 goodness.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree, i think it is solid 5-11 in between those two bolts. I did not get a piece in at the top either, but the climbing eases as you get higher.
By Quino Gonzalez
Nov 5, 2009

You can place a micro-nut after the second bolt. This will make the fall a bit shorter, in case things donīt quite work on the exit. In any case, it is a clean fall and should be okay to take it. It does give you peace of mind though since the last moves are so committing.
By jack roberts
May 31, 2010

Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

you can get in at least 2 micros above the last bolt, and they're solid. i must have climbed up, and down 2-3 times before committing to those last moves!
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 17, 2011

One of the best routes of the grade in LCC. Don't bother placing gear above that 2nd bolt. It will only pump you out and make you fall. Great rests throughout.
By johnny utah
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The final bolt's nut is loose and could use a tighening with some glue to prevent it from loosening again. I think it has loosened due to the crossloading force (to the right) of those who fall on toprope or lower off on the climb. The bolt hanger twists counter clockwise when loaded in this situation and then the leader corrects it each time it is lead. The glue that once held it stationary has broken. The result is a potential hazard on a well used route.
By Dean Raynes
Sep 5, 2013

Great climb, I agree that this is a good climb to get into the grade, its 5.9+ sustained but only a couple moves at 5.11. And dont put a piece above the second bolt just commit, make the move, and stand up on good feet.