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 ADVANCED
Dihedrals Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black and White John and Mary T,TR 
Equipment Overhang T 
Equipment Overhang Right T 
Fallen Angel Variation T 
Half-A-Finger T 
Lisa's Shoulder T 
Satan's Corner T 
Satan's Nook T 
Stem the Tide S,TR 

Equipment Overhang Right 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Jack Roberts, Frank Trummel 1976
Page Views: 2,181
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 6, 2006

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Equipment Overhang Right in LCC

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Description 

This climbs up the right side of the obvious overhang in the middle of the wall. It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack that thins out to some face climbing (crux).

It then works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast, as is the face finish.

The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful. However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.

Location 

Just right of Equipment Overhang Left.

Protection 

Standard rack, heavy on the small stuff. I used one brass and 2 small aliens, and a WC Zero. Chains at the top.


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By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Sep 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing is fun! Definitely not R, it protects fine, but thin gear at the crux, like Nathan said. I protected the hardest moves with a 00 C3 (not mine, but now I gotta buy a set I think) and a blue metolius TCU. I thought the crux was moving from the face/corner to the arete, but that whole section was pretty hard.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can save money and use two bomber small nuts (~3 stopper) at the crux. Also if the crux gets to easy (never been for me - always exciting!), I've watched people stay in the corner the whole way!
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers.
By Marq Diamond
Sep 1, 2011

Normally I don't climb R routes in LCC, or anywhere for that matter, but I lead this yesterday and was able to sew it up. Nice alien above the crux, small metolius tcus for the last bit.