Equipment Overhang Right
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This climbs up the right side of the obvious overhang in the middle of the wall. It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack that thins out to some face climbing (crux).
It then works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast, as is the face finish.
The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful. However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.
Just right of Equipment Overhang Left.
Standard rack, heavy on the small stuff. I used one brass and 2 small aliens, and a WC Zero. Chains at the top.
|Comments on Equipment Overhang Right
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Sep 9, 2006
This thing is fun! Definitely not R, it protects fine, but thin gear at the crux, like Nathan said. I protected the hardest moves with a 00 C3 (not mine, but now I gotta buy a set I think) and a blue metolius TCU. I thought the crux was moving from the face/corner to the arete, but that whole section was pretty hard.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 2, 2007
You can save money and use two bomber small nuts (~3 stopper) at the crux. Also if the crux gets to easy (never been for me - always exciting!), I've watched people stay in the corner the whole way!
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 15, 2008
No way does it deserve a seriousness rating. There's gear the whole way. First, there's a whopping threadable flake before the crux. The placements at the crux have gotten better over the years. What used to be RPs at the crux are now small, but bomb-proof stoppers.
|By Marq Diamond|
Sep 1, 2011
Normally I don't climb R routes in LCC, or anywhere for that matter, but I lead this yesterday and was able to sew it up. Nice alien above the crux, small metolius tcus for the last bit.