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Equalizing Figure 8 Rope Anchor
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Mar 23, 2015

I use the self equalizing figure 8 as one of my many techniques for anchoring. This week, I've used it quite often because my bag of runners and cams were stolen. Also, I use cordelets and clove hitches too. For two bolts, the clove hitches work well. When I am tying off to a three point anchor, I'm more apt to use the self equalizing figure 8.

While nylon might have a higher co-efficient of friction, this isn't an area that you get a lot of friction in. As the belayer, generally your right there to watch the anchor. I can't imagine a situation where you would cut through your rope with this anchor.

Furthermore, I for belay anchors that are not bolts, I always try to use a 3 point anchor. Often, I'll even back up bolts. I've climbed for 43 years and have lost some dear friends in the sport. It's not a crime to be extra safe.

You can use a SE Figure 8 and tie off to your harness biner with a clove hitch to determine your length in reference to the anchor.

Thank you for a good discussion, keep climbing and may all of us enjoy the mountains and stay safe.
Self Equalizing Figure 8 Knot
Self Equalizing Figure 8 Knot
David Engel
From Santa Rosa, CA
Joined Jan 29, 2015
5 points
Mar 24, 2015
This thread gets a +9 instead of a full +10 because I know Nude can be more witty.

Very informational, and entertaining. Thank you, all.
From Texas
Joined May 5, 2014
192 points
Mar 24, 2015
Just to remind people that the self equalising fig 8 has a catastrophic failure mode if used with 2 pieces. i.e. when one loop is clipped to one piece and the remaining two loops are clipped to the other piece.

If one piece blows the knot falls apart. The doesn't happen with three pieces, nor if each of the three loops are clipped to two pieces with separate carabiners.

So, the golden rule is: the number of carabiners needs to equal the number of loops, not the number of pieces.
David Coley
From UK
Joined Oct 26, 2013
50 points

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