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A fun moderate outing, with fairly good protection by Camden standards. Climb up a short slab near the left end of the big roof. make your way around the left side of the roof until it is possible to step right onto the slab above the roof. follow cracks up to a large peapod. Pull through the peapod (crux), and continue up a series of cracks until you come to a chain anchor. Their is a second pitch to this climb but its not worth doing (4rd class scramble).
This route is located on the left side of the cliff, it starts at the far left end of the giant roof. THeir is a big dead tree at the base of the climb.
This climb is protected fairly well. Bring small gear, especially tri-cams. Their is a chain anchor at the top of the climb, be careful not to climb past it.
|By T. Moon|
Sep 4, 2009
Gotta say I disagree with the above description. I find this climb to be awkward and difficult to protect. I would not recommend it for a new leader at all. Rapping off is not straight forward, either, as you have to tension to the climber's left to avoid going over the roof and through the large tree.
Charlotte's Crack is the best intro to Camden.
|By Matty Zane|
Oct 31, 2009
Haha, it definetly can be tricky to protect. But by barrets cove standards, I believe it protects better then most other lines, but maybe not. But I do agree with the rappel, I always seem to end up in the tree. And Charletts is the best intro climb to the cliff.
|By Keyan P|
From: Burlington, VT
Aug 30, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R
A fun climb with a nice view, protection is awkward and difficult at times. The initial groove was wet for me so instead I moved 8' to the left and went up the hand crack to start. First pitch ends on a huge ledge with a chained tree anchor. Second pitch is short fourth class going climbers right, not really worth it in my opinion. I saw a variation going straight from the tree belay following a thin crack up the vertical wall for 20' and ending at a two bolt anchor. Didn't do the variation but it looked okay. I rappelled from the tree belay with a single 60m rope, ended up being about 8' from the ground but was able to easily downclimb.