Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absolutely Billy T 
Absolutely Brilliant S 
Blue Cab T 
Boot Hill S 
Clown Car T 
Corrugation Corner T 
Crash Landing T 
Dead Pool, The T 
Dragon Back S 
Eeyore's Enigma T 
Epitaph T 
North Country T 
North Face Route T 
Power Lust S 
Purple Haze T 
R.I.P. S 
Silly Willy Crack T 
Stem Meister T 
Tombstone Terror T 
Traveler Buttress T 
Wall Flower T 
Yankee Dog T 
Youthful Exuberance T,S 

Epitaph 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Obanheim, Brian Harrington, Chris Bay, 1985
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jul 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Epitaph... the true Tombstone Terror of Lover's Leap! This route starts up a crack right above the most prominent tombstone on Tombstone Ledge. Another 5.10c, this one is much different in character than the Terror. The Epitaph was the famous silver mine in Tombstone AZ, that funded the boom that extracted 25 million dollars in a few short years in the 1880s, when the Earp brothers were in town. The Epitaph was also the name of the local paper.

Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin. Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.

After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.

A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.


Location 

Tombstone ledge. 30 feet left of Tombstone Terror, 20 feet left of RIP. Start up the crack that is right above the highest tombstone.


Protection 

Light rack to 2", 3 bolts, one fixed pin. All three 1/4" lead bolts pulled 7/09 and replaced with modern 3/8" stainless ASCA hardware.

Rappel off slung block 30' left on the ledge. Might want to take some cord to back it up, but it was ok as of 7/09.



Comments on Epitaph Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -