Epiphany aid solo, 8/8/11. Hard and scary, crack e...
Climb up crack to the right of Cracking Up. Rest at ledge(30 feet), then straight up through small overhang. Holds seem to disappear near the finish. Hopefully you will have an "Epiphany" as to how to finish the route. If not, you can bail on Cracking Up. Trying to get good gear right at the crux may be a waste of valuable time...
Crack to the right of the obvious inside corner route, Cracking Up.
RP's and smallest Ballnut protect the crux sequence quite nicely. The crux for me is resisting temptation to stem off the left side of the "Crack'n Up" corner with left foot at the crux.... I succumbed again this weekend past to that little devil whispering in my left ear.....
By Doug Hemken Administrator Sep 14, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Not bad for a route with rules! I probably shouldn't have waited so many years to try this.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Jul 14, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
I've only done this thing once, and it was an exciting on-site to say the least. I agree that it looks a lot easier from the ground.
I lead a variation that goes up and right after the ledge. This avoids the hard-to-protect crux and felt like a 5.7. I had a hard time placing protection in the middle of the route where the crack thins out. I almost bailed but then found a pocket that ate a master cam number 2.