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Pseudo Hawk's Nest
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Epiphany 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Paul Jones on Aug 18, 2009
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Epiphany aid solo, 8/8/11. Hard and scary, crack e...

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Description 

Climb up crack to the right of Cracking Up. Rest at ledge(30 feet), then straight up through small overhang. Holds seem to disappear near the finish. Hopefully you will have an "Epiphany" as to how to finish the route. If not, you can bail on Cracking Up. Trying to get good gear right at the crux may be a waste of valuable time...


Location 

Crack to the right of the obvious inside corner route, Cracking Up.


Protection 

Wires and small pro



Photos of Epiphany Slideshow Add Photo
The beginning of Epiphany.  Cracking Up is the inside corner on the left.  Photo by Jason McKeefry.
The beginning of Epiphany. Cracking Up is the ins...
Epiphany
Epiphany
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By Paul Dieterle
From: Pasadena, CA
Aug 29, 2009

BOOOOOOO!!!! Absolutely HATED this one. Looks good, climbs bad.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2010

climbed this route not knowing what it was...half way up traversed left and climbed other crack(dihedral) to top...

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 13, 2010

RP's and smallest Ballnut protect the crux sequence quite nicely.
The crux for me is resisting temptation to stem off the left side of the "Crack'n Up" corner with left foot at the crux.... I succumbed again this weekend past to that little devil whispering in my left ear.....

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not bad for a route with rules! I probably shouldn't have waited so many years to try this.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I've only done this thing once, and it was an exciting on-site to say the least. I agree that it looks a lot easier from the ground.

By Bryan Keller
From: Madison, WI
Oct 23, 2011

I lead a variation that goes up and right after the ledge. This avoids the hard-to-protect crux and felt like a 5.7. I had a hard time placing protection in the middle of the route where the crack thins out. I almost bailed but then found a pocket that ate a master cam number 2.