|Bell Buttress - Main Crag
While Epiphany Direct already describes the original Epiphany a bit, the routes is good enough that it deserves its own description.
Start 10 feet downhill and to the left of Arms Bazaar. You will see a bolt about 15 feet off the ground. Don't blow it getting to the bolt. You can place a small cam before the bolt if you wish. Once on the ledge above, clip the anchor with a long sling and set off into the slabby face and cracks above. There is one small nest of gear about 20 feet off the ledge (once again, don't blow it getting there!). 10 or 15 feet above that you will get another nest of really good nuts and cams and then punch it for the finishing thin crack on Arms Bazaar.
This is an excellent, long pitch with quite a bit of thoughtful climbing and a hard crux.
This is ten feet to the left of Arms Bazaar.
2 bolts and some very spaced out small gear. Bolted anchor.
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
This is a really nice route, with good climbing on good rock. Not really R, but not really Fisher-Price either. Split the difference and call it PG-13, with good gear available but involving a bit of work. Consistent climbing in the 10-ish range with a brief crux.
|By Scott Bennett|
Oct 22, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Agree that this is a fine pitch, one that I overlooked on my first few visits to this crag (the best crag in Boulder Canyon?)
I thought the climbing was consistently thought provoking, up to a great rest, and then a full-on crux. Bonus points for finishing on the fun finger crack shared with Arms Bazaar.
As for pro, I felt adequately protected on all the 5.10 and above sections. Not R, but bring RPs, and don't botch the crux gear.