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Fall Wall
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5.11 Crack 
Clam Shell 
Cold Finger 
Colonial Rule 
Drop Zone 
E.O. Friction 
E.O. Lieback 
Easy Overhang Traverse 
Fall Wall (*the route) 
Fear and Loathing 
Guilty Fingers 
Gunga Din 
Mickey Mantle 
Neon Madman 
Spider God 
Upper Fall Wall Route 

E.O. Friction 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,620
Submitted By: Scott Hansen on Jul 22, 2001
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At the anchors of E.O. Friction. E.O. Leiback cli...


This is just an easy introduction to slab climbing. It is a good warm-up for some of the neighboring routes. Just don't blow that first clip.


This route has three bolts on it. It's a rather long trip to the first bolt but the climbing is very easy. This route shares the bolt anchor with E.O. Lieback.

Photos of E.O. Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying some fun, easy slab.
Enjoying some fun, easy slab.
Direct shot of EO Friction and EO crack next to it.
BETA PHOTO: Direct shot of EO Friction and EO crack next to it...
Comments on E.O. Friction Add Comment
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fun route and well protected. The "crux" is getting to the first two bolts, then it's very easy the rest of the way to the anchors. To me the first 15 feet felt like 5.6 climbing, while the top half of the route was much easier. A fun, but short, climb.

By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

This route is a very nice introduction to Vedauwoo friction climbing, but the first 15 feet to the first bolt are why I gave this a 5.6 PG rating. Once the first clip is in place, the difficulty also eases. Initially climbed in Terray mountaineering boots! Over the years, I've done this 20+ times.

By Matt Novinger
From: Erie, CO
May 28, 2013

There's a fairly big gap up top between the third and final bolt and the anchors at the top left. Granted the climbing is very, very easy up there, I felt better throwing a offset into a small seam about 6 feet above the last bolt.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Easy enough, but I suspect it would be rated 5a (i.e. ~5.9) on Scotland's Etive Slabs where there are no bolts!