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 ADVANCED
Fall Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Crack T 
Clam Shell TR 
Cold Finger S 
Colonial Rule T 
Drop Zone S,TR 
E.O. Friction S 
E.O. Lieback T 
Easy Overhang Traverse T 
Fall Wall (*the route) T,S 
Fear and Loathing T 
Guilty Fingers S,TR 
Gunga Din S 
Hole T 
Mickey Mantle S 
Neon Madman T 
Spider God T,S 
Upper Fall Wall Route T 

E.O. Friction 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,772
Submitted By: Scott Hansen on Jul 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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At the anchors of E.O. Friction. E.O. Leiback cli...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is just an easy introduction to slab climbing. It is a good warm-up for some of the neighboring routes. Just don't blow that first clip.

Protection 

This route has three bolts on it. It's a rather long trip to the first bolt but the climbing is very easy. This route shares the bolt anchor with E.O. Lieback.


Photos of E.O. Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Enjoying some fun, easy slab.
Enjoying some fun, easy slab.
Direct shot of EO Friction and EO crack next to it...
BETA PHOTO: Direct shot of EO Friction and EO crack next to it...

Comments on E.O. Friction Add Comment
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route and well protected. The "crux" is getting to the first two bolts, then it's very easy the rest of the way to the anchors. To me the first 15 feet felt like 5.6 climbing, while the top half of the route was much easier. A fun, but short, climb.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This route is a very nice introduction to Vedauwoo friction climbing, but the first 15 feet to the first bolt are why I gave this a 5.6 PG rating. Once the first clip is in place, the difficulty also eases. Initially climbed in Terray mountaineering boots! Over the years, I've done this 20+ times.
By Matt Novinger
From: Erie, CO
May 28, 2013

There's a fairly big gap up top between the third and final bolt and the anchors at the top left. Granted the climbing is very, very easy up there, I felt better throwing a offset into a small seam about 6 feet above the last bolt.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Easy enough, but I suspect it would be rated 5a (i.e. ~5.9) on Scotland's Etive Slabs where there are no bolts!