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Route topo (picturing Dan Russell on top of Lizard...
Begin on the southwest side (the parking lot side) and follow a 5.7 crack/face up about 25 feet to a flake. Place a #4 cam here if needed. Move up and a little right to gain the right end of the large, obvious flake splitting the tower just beneath the summit overhang. Use a long runner to sling a horn here, then proceed straight up on overhanging jugs to a 2 bolt/1 drilled pin anchor. Mantle (yeah...).
The rock quality is good, and can be trusted for the most part.
Bring a #4 cam and a long runner to protect the crux moves.
BETA PHOTO: Marcus Garcia and Ryan Ray on Lizard Rock on Thank...
Dan Russell on the final summit overhang of Entry ...
TT on Entry Fee
Atop the lizard just before a rain shower!
Brian peers over the edge to view the (non-threate...
Robin moving onto big flake before traversing righ...
Lori Graf on the summit.
Photo by Todd Gordon.
Me following 68 year old Czech climbing legend Zor...
Zorka normally climbs barefooted at home.
it really looks like the upper 1/3 of the tower-le...
on top 12 years after getting spooked and backing ...
not photo shopped
oh yes he did
thats a rap
Jon leading our sunset climb
|By Ben Folsom|
Nov 13, 2001
There is another variation to this route which is fun. Instead of going straight up from the big flake near the top, traverse the flake left until it runs out. Stand up and there is an old(not very trustworthy), hidden bolt. Then climb straight up from the bolt on steep jugs to the top. Still about 5.8.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 19, 2001
And yet another variation. Stand atop the right side of the flake, bearhug/grope a slopey bulge to the right and traverse right into a bowl. Follow a ledge halfway around the spire to the right (NE side, away from the parking), pull up enough slack to mantle and gain the top (about 5.6/7 move to gain summit). Don't even think of falling off the backside mantle though as you will spiral all around the tower on your way back to that slung flake.
|By Holly Barnard|
Apr 2, 2002
My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence.
|By Jon Cannon|
Jan 24, 2006
Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing.
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 11, 2006
Probably most people's first introduction to climbing in the Fishers. Nothing to write home about, but will provide the first-timer with a general sense of what to expect on the bigger routes. Plus, it's an easy "tower" to tick.
|By Rich Kelly|
Nov 28, 2006
Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described.
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 2, 2007
I did this climb with Lori Graf in the early 1980's... I got scared. I believe this climb even today is still frightening people, isn't it? The bolts were sheit too.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jan 3, 2009
Did the right side mantle variation at the top. Didn't have any gear to protect the mantle, so I was pretty gripped. A worthwhile climb but take more than just the #4 Camalot that is mentioned here. I took that and a #5 Friend. The #5 friend was good for the bottom crack. You could probably get a #1 (red) Camalot in above that, and above that there are some shallow horizontal slots where you could probably get in a C3 (maybe a red or yellow? or maybe the one smaller than those...) or TCU. I don't know if it'd hold but it would be nice psychological pro.
There are three bomber bolts with chains on top.
Oct 13, 2009
Nice climb with resonable pro and rock quality. I don't understand the "R" rating.
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
This route is surely R rated. Even if all the gear holds you'd be mighty close to the ground (at best) if you fell in many spots. Going straight up is much better than the wrap around in the guide book because the mantle is a lot easier and on cleaner rock that way. A big cam like a #6 C4 might be the best pro on the final flake but you have a few options. The bolts seem fairly solid but they are small and old and I didn't dare fall on them.
|By Aaron Ihinger|
Apr 25, 2011
I thought it went well straight up the middle. There is a second horn to sling that protects the last moves to the anchor. I thought that the second horn replaced the call for an "R" in the rating.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Nov 17, 2012
i just love all the photo topos that are getting posted. not much more can be said about this one. if you have not done it; you should; it's fun