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Entrance Exam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredricks,Larry Marshik,Jim Bridwell 8/65
Season: year around
Page Views: 2,973
Submitted By: armando fimbrez on Feb 26, 2008
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Entrance Exam 5.9*** Don't under estamate the 5.9 ...

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  • Description 

    Taken from supertopo. Feels like 5.10 and is good Steck Salathe training. Awkward moves around blocks occasionally interupt classic chimney climing. You may want to bring extra wide gear for the chimney runouts.


    Arch Rock. 200 yards before the Arch rock entrance station


    Nuts:One set;Cams:1ea 1.5-2",2ea 3-10" (Optional:additional 10")
    Rappel most routes with two 50m or 60m ropes.

    Photos of Entrance Exam Slideshow Add Photo
    Start of pitch 2.
    Start of pitch 2.
    Looking down the flare/flake from the top of Pitch 3 (top of supertopo pitch 2).
    Looking down the flare/flake from the top of Pitch...
    Comments on Entrance Exam Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By snowhazed
    From: Oakland, Ca
    Feb 15, 2009

    If you don't bring 10 inch gear the first pitch is very x rated for 60 plus feet until you get good gear below the sandy slopey block pull to the first belay.

    By Adam P.
    Oct 19, 2009

    I would have to disagree with Mr. Mooring's comments regarding the need for a 10 inch piece of gear. From my experience (I've done the route twice), I brought the old school BD #5, #4.5 and #4 Camalot's which more than adequately protected the first pitch. This route is a phenomenal climb, and I would highly recommend it.

    By Rob Dillon
    Apr 11, 2010

    Knee pads!

    By squiddo
    From: Mountain View, CA
    Apr 11, 2010

    Hey Rob, ha bummed we didnt get to chat yesterday after you did this. Knee pads big time.

    By DJ Reyes
    From: Northern Nevada
    Aug 24, 2012

    Did this in 06. Very memorable route. I pushed an old #5 Camalot almost the entire length of pitch 2 and it protected like a dream. I thought getting past the block of pitch 3 was the crux.

    By Mark P Thomas
    From: Oakland
    May 4, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    The climb is very well protected. I brought cams through #6 and was able to push them most of the way on all pitches. There is only one part where you need larger gear to place (#4 Big Bro), but it is short and easy enough that if you are comfortable on this route, it is much easier to run through that section than to hang out placing a bro.

    P3 crux flare was really fun to work out!