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 ADVANCED
(01) The Entrance
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Entrance Exam 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Pletta, Mark Thomas
Season: spring/fall
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Matthew Ver Eecke on Mar 12, 2007
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Description 

A solid route throughout. The third move after going to the right is tricky, but the crux doesn't come until around the fifth bolt, close to the top.


Protection 

6 bolts with anchors at top



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By Dave Wachter
Mar 2, 2008

A few good moves off the ground, but basically this is a choss pile with some painfully sharp rock. Tempting to warm up on it, as it's by far the easiest climb in the entrance area, but better to hike in a bit further or warm up bolt-to-bolt on the 12's. If you must climb this, consider taping your right hand...

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 14, 2008

I actually thought this was an alright warmup. Hardest moves for me were passing the second bolt, then it was fairly easy climbing, with some slightly technical sections to the anchors.

If you don't have impeccable jamming technique, consider taping your right hand as mentioned above.

Also what is up with the rap anchors at the top, this route leans left so much that it would be really difficult to clean on rappel.