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Entertaining Mike Tyson
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in (03) The Franks
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Beavis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Butthead S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Crash Test Dummy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Entertaining Mike Tyson S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Foust Robinson S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Funky Junkie S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Junkhead S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Love Have Love S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Monkey Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sick Man S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Wooden Jesus S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Dave Pegg (bolted by Lance Hadfield) |
| Page Views: | 1,940 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is one of the better hard routes at Palomas, due to the fact that it actually has holds, and is not just a 60 degree overhanging bolted crack.
This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.
This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.
This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.
This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.
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