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Entertaining Mike Tyson 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Pegg (bolted by Lance Hadfield)
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 719
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Matt L. trying the move off of the flared finger l...

Description 

This is one of the better hard routes at Palomas, due to the fact that it actually has holds, and is not just a 60 degree overhanging bolted crack.

This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.

This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.


Location 

This route can be difficult to find since the number of bolted routes on this section of cliff has changed since the last guidebook edition. The route is immediately right of "Crash test Dummies" which is an 11d bolted hand crack. EMT is also the first really steep route after a short section of 3 or so mostly vertical routes.


Protection 

Bolts, Stick clip



Photos of Entertaining Mike Tyson Slideshow Add Photo
Matt L. hoping to stick the edge when going again off of the two finger pocket. <br /> <br />Notice the nice tunnel thread directional.
Matt L. hoping to stick the edge when going again ...
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 27, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Only one two finger pocket on the route and the pull off of it is not that difficult, it kind of locks on your finger so tape is a good idea. The crux involves pulling off the terrible flared finger lock one move higher, or catching the edge as you go again off of the pocket. The bear hugging section is quite slappy with bad feet. Good physical climbing.

A double shoulder length runner can be threaded through some pods at the base of the route to the right and clipped to keep the rope out of the climbers way.

By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

If moving off the flared finger-lock, tape is advised on the pinky and ring finger....