Entertaining Mike Tyson  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Dave Pegg (bolted by Lance Hadfield) Season:  Year Round Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Matt L. trying the move off of the flared finger l...

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Description 

This is one of the better hard routes at Palomas, due to the fact that it actually has holds, and is not just a 60 degree overhanging bolted crack.

This route is rumored to have a drilled pocket, but I am apparently too naive to identify the pocket in question.

This route is extremely powerful, and requires a large amount of 2-finger pocket strength. The route starts with a few good jugs before launching into a desperate series of lunges and deadpoints to get established in the obvious undercling crack. From the undercling bear hug your way up and right, do a few obligatory Palomas finger locks, clip the last bolt, and cruise on to the chains.

Location 

This route can be difficult to find since the number of bolted routes on this section of cliff has changed since the last guidebook edition. The route is immediately right of "Crash test Dummies" which is an 11d bolted hand crack. EMT is also the first really steep route after a short section of 3 or so mostly vertical routes.

Protection 

Bolts, Stick clip

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Matt L. hoping to stick the edge when going again ...