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Enter Sandman 

Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Thomas Townsend, February 2013
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: andy patterson on Feb 25, 2013

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Start to 'Enter Sandman'

Description 

Enter Sandman is the culmination of cleaning, attempting, failing on, and eventually sending one of my long term projects. Except that I didn't send it, in the end. Thomas did. Anyhoo, I was calling this project "Muad'dib" for a long time, in reference to a character in Frank Herbert's epic Sci-FI book, Dune.

Anyhoo, begin on some wild-looking pockets and pinches, and lurch up to a huge but distant lip-gaston. Turn the gaston in to an undercling, throw for the top lip, and mantle. If you're not careful, the first move will likely dislocate your shoulder. Awesome little line, in my opinion.

Location 

From the arete of Kathy Moffat, look down and right in to the big, black, burned-out cave. Enter Sandman climbs out the far left side of the cave.

Protection 

Pad. Spot.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 25, 2013

Thomas made it clear to me that he merely suggests V10-11. He encourages others to try the problem and comment on their perspective.
By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Feb 26, 2013

Does anyone have a picture of this forthcoming? I'd be stoked to see it.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 26, 2013

This photo shows the start, but the top-out is obviously obscured. I'll try to nab a photo next time I'm up at the Mouth. Trust me: the problem looks better "in person".
By Tim King
Feb 27, 2013

Yeah, my fault on the bad photo. Was moving some files and saw that pic and Seans request, so I tossed it up, but this climb deserves a quality shot. Thom is a beast... So he did the mantel top out to the left, as opposed to following the (extremely dirty) lip of the cave out right?
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 27, 2013

Yes, Thom exited straight out the lip. The "right" exit, which is known as the Arrakis Project, climbs about thirty feet of diagonally traversing rock, with a not-so-great landing. We think it's probably about the same grade as Enter Sandman.