|742 page views|
|Type: ||Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||M5-6 [details]|
|FA: ||John Wharton and David Isles, 1958|
|Submitted By: ||j wharton on Mar 6, 2012|
Danny Murphy near the top.
This is my favorite winter route on Hallett; partly because my father did the first ascent (in summer) in 1958, and partly because the last pitch is steep and cool with tools and crampons. Like all Hallett routes, difficulty will depend on how much snow is sticking to the rock, or blocking your path. The final pitch is the crux. Check out the below link (scroll down) to see Wilford and Ferguson climbing the route in amazing conditions, as well as some other interesting photos of front range ice.
I've never actually encountered any ice on the route, but I'm guessing late spring would most likely produce the conditions seen above.
This is the big, obvious arch on the east facing ascpect of Hallett's North Face. You can approach the upper half of the route from the bottom of Hallett Chimney, or via the big, right-facing dihedral on the right.
Set and a half of cams, Stoppers.
|Comments on Englishman's Route
|By erik wellborn|
From: manitou springs
Mar 11, 2012
Couldn't find an Englishman; so I did it with a crazy Irishman instead! He didn't seem to mind. Pretty cool as a mixed line. Steep and sustained. The final slab seems a wee bit runout, but maybe I was off-route.