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I think this is a great route, one of the best in the Boulder area. In the 'changing corners' section you can have excellent protection above your head for all the hard moves. The 2nd pitch looks much harder than it turns out to be.

If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux finger crack, but it was most likely just the weight of the rope.

However you do this route, it's gotta be one of the best 5.11 trad climbs anywhere. Hats off to Alec Sharp and Bill Feiges for putting this one up.

Sic, Sic...Sic Climb!! One of the best in the Boulder area if you can climb the Grade. Forget the first part of Country club, just do this climb!

BE CAREFUL once you have pulled the mantle, you will certainly deck until you get something in the first dihedral, as mentioned above.

A double set of Aliens, blue to red, is the best pro for this climb, it's almost like cheating. (plus whatever you need for the crux of Country Club) You can do this in one pitch, one rope, if you have a 70m, which will reach the anchors for athletes feet, then another short rappel down.

I'll agree with the comment above. Sic, sic, SIC climb! The best BC has to offer. I thought Arm's Bazaar was the best until yesterday.

Great pro the whole way with unrelenting moves. Just go for it! Definitely do it as one pitch, and take lots of slings. An 11d onsight and you'll need to have your gear dialed in at the crux for a successful send.

Wow. Castle Rock is so cool. I did this spectacular route yesterday.

I had to give the bottom mantle a couple efforts before seeing the sequence and sending it (I obviously needed some Royal Robbins boots to trust my feet) and linking into the next pitch for one general odyssey of a climb. Holy-moly rope drag!!---extend your gear with slings, not draws at the thin changing corners crux.

Also, let's replace the spinning, rusting SMC bolts that protect the mantle. I need a drill....

One gear beta response to the original post is that you can get really good gear above the slab, at the base of the thin corner. At the corner is a small, secure, offset nut. And down about 5 feet and right is bomber 1" piece or #0.5 Camalot.

Awesome. Will definitely climb this route again sometime.

Awesome route. No doubt one of the best trad lines in Boulder Canyon. One little tip for those who are interested: if you are going for the whole thing as one pitch, I highly recommend bringing triples (at least) of finger and big finger size cams (yellow and orange Metolius or equivalent) as well as extras in the #6 stopper/ #4 rock range.

Brillant pitch linked as one with CCC! A single set of cams with doubles in fingers and a couple nuts will sew the whole pitch up.