This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.
15 feet to the left of Midterm.
Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.
Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.
From: San Jose
Mar 22, 2010
As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 14, 2011
I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful!
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013
Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb.