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English Breakfast Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

English Breakfast Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Fredericks & Kim Schmitz, July 1966 FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
Page Views: 2,578
Submitted By: Dennis on Feb 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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1st pitch

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.

Location 

15 feet to the left of Midterm.

Protection 

Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.


Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.


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2nd pitch
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 22, 2010

As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 14, 2011

I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful!
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013

Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb.