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Engines of Archimedes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Max Dufford, Fred Grafton, 92
Page Views: 588
Submitted By: michal on Apr 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Great sport climb, starts with technical slab with thin layback 11-.This leads to a 10+ mantel which brings one to large ledge. Jugs lead to a bulge with a powerful crux 11+. A climber has fallen from near the top and slammed into the wall hard enough to crack a rib, so don't blow the final moves... Its all there just slightly committing if going for the onsight.


To the right of Friendly Fire starts on same ledge system


Handful of quickdraws

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By Jon Nelson
Apr 1, 2013

Easy & dry access for setting up a TR, and the route tends to stay dry in wet weather, so it is a great route for working.

It has somewhat slabby, technical moves at the bottom, a thoughtful mantle, and then a pumpy finish (which I haven't yet gotten).
By Drewsky
Jun 6, 2013

Really cool route. Had always wanted to try it and found it clean and ready to climb this past week. Thought the top was pretty stout. .11+? Sure, why not! As for a hard fall, it seems that with a soft catch it wouldn't be an issue. I wonder if what was meant is that it's possible to hit the big ledge if falling from the final hard moves? I didn't look too closely but it didn't seem to be an issue. With such a steep wall it seems that only an overly tight belay would cause someone to slam back into the wall.
By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Mar 11, 2015

Also thought this pitch was high quality, 3.5 stars. The opening slab-to-mantel is classic slab dancing requiring precise and powerful movement.

I blew the crux clip with rope out and my belayer's attentiveness kept me off the slab below but caution is certainly warranted. The clip is tricky and the sequence is hardest at that point.
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