Looking down on Meiringen from the top of the Gros...
Towering above the small village of Innertkirchen in the Bernese Oberland, the Engelhoerner are a group of bizarre, jagged limestone peaks. Included in the group is the gigantic Kingspitz, which is known for its very long, very alpine routes. A number of the surrounding peaks offer some of the best long alpine sport routes that Switzerland has to offer.
The rock in the alpine sport climbing areas is generally of very high quality and quite compact. Most of the routes are on southwest faces, and get sun from the late morning through the late afternoon. The best seasons are summer and autumn (there is often snow in the area until late spring, making the approach very tedious at this time of year).
Climbing at the Engelhörner is fairly popular. On weekends during the prime climbing season, one is unlikely to be alone on any of the routes, at least the moderate ones.
There are numerous guidebooks covering the area, including plaisir-west, schweiz extrem-west and sportklettern berner oberland.
On the saddle between Meiringen and Innertkirchen, take the turn-off (right by the one and only gas station) for Rosenlaui. Follow the road up the valley until Gschwantenmad.
For all routes near the Engerlhoerner hut, turn left there, cross a bridge, and follow a small, unpaved and private road for several kilometers, gaining a fair bit of elevation, until you reach an obvious parking place. Park there, and walk up to the nearby alp to pay the fee for using the road (CHF 15). The approach begins behind the alp, and it takes around 60 minutes to get to the Engelhoerner hut. From the hut, the approach times are generally short (15 minutes).
For routes on the Tannenspitze or Rosenlauistock, continue driving up the valley until you reach Rosenlaui. Park there and follow the marked trail towards the Engelhoerner hut. Break from this trail undearneath the Rosenlauistock to access the routes there.
Climbing Season For the Switzerland area.
Weather station 3.3 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Engelhoerner
Naebel und Chempae 6a 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Europe
An amazing sport climb with a distinctly alpine feel. Very interesting for the grade, and remarkably homogeneous in its entirety. Particularly in the upper half of the route, it is one stellar pitch after another. To boot, there's a proper top-out with incredible views in all directions. If the grade suits, and you have one day at the Engelhoerner, this is the route to go for.Pitches go at 5a, 5b, 6a, 5c+, 3a, 4c, 5c+, 6a, 5c, 6a, 5c+, 6a....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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The imposing north face of the Kingspitz
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