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 ADVANCED
Otter Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flake, The T,TR 
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 
Alcove TR 
Barnacle Baits TR 
Black Crack T 
Brochure Crack TR 
Cakewalk TR 
Child's Play TR 
Chockstone Chimney TR 
Choppy Seas TR 
Cliff Traverse 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 
Coppertone TR 
Crucifix TR 
Deep Blue Sea TR 
Dike Route TR 
Drunken Sailor T 
Easy Corner T,TR 
Ebb and Flow TR 
Engel Arete T,TR 
Fisherman's Folly TR 
Gallery Arete T 
Gallery, The TR 
Great Chimney, The TR 
Greenway TR 
Greybeard TR 
Guillemot Crack T 
Guillotine T,TR 
In The Groove T,TR 
Inner Sanctum TR 
Jamcrack T,TR 
Lady Luck TR 
Maine Central TR 
Mermaid TR 
Mystic, The TR 
Nerve Damage TR 
Open Book TR 
Otter Point TR 
Out to Sea TR 
Outer Face TR 
Overhanging Corner T,TR 
Peak Performance T,TR 
Plaque Crack TR 
Razorback TR 
Rising Tide TR 
Rock Lobster TR 
Rolling Swells TR 
Seabreeze TR 
Seafarer TR 
Small Cove Problem 
Sober Seaman T 
Spray Deck TR 
Staircase TR 
Starfish TR 
State of Maine TR 
Submariner TR 
Summer Camp Corner TR 
Swing Time TR 
Tap Dance TR 
Wave Action TR 
White Horses TR 
Whitecaps TR 
Wiessner Route TR 
Wonder Wall TR 
Wonderwall - Left TR 
Wounderwall - Right TR 
Yellow Wall T,TR 
Zephyr TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Engel Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Aug 22, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Caroline getting to the top of the route

Description 

Crux is a balancy hand move 15 feet off the ground. Good mix of moves and exposure many feet above the waves.

Route is short but worth lapping a few times to work on technique.

Location 

Left of plaque (on plaque wall). Stays on the right side of the arete.

Protection 

Toproped. No anchors, gear needed.


Comments on Engel Arete Add Comment
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By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nuts are best for building the anchor at the top, There aren't any super great cam placements except for one way way back.
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