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 ADVANCED
Energy Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armchair 
Crucifix Dyno 
Crucifriction 
Curb, The 
Energy 
Hands and Fist Crack 
Less Than Thievery 
No Energy 
Snarl 
Thievery 
Unsorted Routes:

Energy 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 7'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5- Font: 6C [details]
FA: Jim Hausmann, 1999 or 2000?
Season: Year round
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Jan 2, 2009

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Description 

This is a fine problem with a nasty top-out that will have you wishing for more energy. It is located to the right of Hands and Fist Crack.

Start with your left hand in an under-clinging three finger pocket and your right on a crimp. Bring your feet up on to a slab. Then move your right up to a sloping pinch type feature and then gun with your left into a large dish with a paralyzing, mantel finish. Take care with your foot positing when negotiating the final mantel, because it could be your undoing.

Location 

Its location is at the Energy Wall, right of Hands and Fist Crack.

Protection 

None.


Comments on Energy Add Comment
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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jan 6, 2009

Is this the problem that a fall most likely will land you on the tree? starting near the crack, traverse out up and right to a awkward sloping mantle? I got this problem one day, I was told V4 ish. I don't climb V5, or at least I didn't think I did.
By Luke Childers
Jan 8, 2009

Hey Jason,
I don't remember any possibility of hitting a tree? I have not been to the area or done the problem in over 5 years. However, it does have a sloping top-out. It's like mantling into a dish-like feature. I can't see the line in any of your posted photos Jason, but it is to the right of the tree.
It may be a V4, but I gave it a V5 because I found the mantel quite hard. Maybe I have poor mantle technique? I am not great at grading problems. My grades are only a suggestion. I have done hundreds of problems in that range, but still it is only my suggestion.
I have loads of problems documented. (maybe 150-200?) I will formulate a more accurate count once I began documentation. I am planing to take my own photos of the problems/areas known to me and post them soon.
I know of many more problems/areas than I have seen posted or published thus far. The task should be interesting.
By Ryko
Jan 30, 2009
rating: V4 6B

Consensus with my friends and I was V4. And you can hit the tree if you miss the bad sloping thing up top.
By Luke Childers
May 14, 2009

The F.A. of this problem was done by Jim Hausmann in 1999 or early 2000 at the latest.
By Ian Gossett
Apr 18, 2012

If you switch 'left' and 'right' every time they appear in the description, it is an exact description of what I did when I thought I may have been climbing "Energy."