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A splitter finger crack and layback in a corner.
Located just right of McTech
Matt Lloyd just before the tips layback/stem fest ...
Just above the crux
|Comments on Energy Crisis
|By Dane Peterson|
Aug 6, 2008
This is a really good line. Visible from Applebee it just beckons, and doesn't disappoint. We did this as one 71m pitch, which was a little presumptuous. Do it as two, rope management is better and you need some recoup time at the belay. Pitch 1 has a blocky start, followed by a thin corner. Mid 10. Pitch 2, the goods, is thin, slightly overhanging and sustained hard 10 climbing with a solid 11 crux. Pull that little lip, and there is another 40 ft of hands and fists to the anchors on top of McTech.
From: Canada Mofuga
Aug 22, 2009
You can climb this in one amazing 70m pitch.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Dec 13, 2012
An elite first ascent team put this route up in 1979.
Hugh Herr was young and very good at freeing aid routes, before cams were available. Just after he did Energy Crisis, we attempted the Southeast Rib of Pigeon. Hugh freed the roof on the first hard pitch, and then weather drove us down. Not long after, Hugh lost both feet to frostbite and then was famous for inventing prosthetic limbs that allowed him to climb extreme routes.
Don Peterson was Royal Robbins partner on the epic first ascent of Tis-sa-ack on Half Dome.