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Energy Before Ecstasy S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Energy Before Ecstasy 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: William Prehm on Oct 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The view from below of Energy Before Ecstasy.

Description 

This route is located on the north side of the Bank right of Hostile Crank Over.

Face climb past (2 bolts) to a large roof. Pull the roof (2 bolts) and finish off the climb on face (3 bolts). Anchors are high to the right.

Protection 

7 bolts. Bring one long draw for under the roof to save you from rope drag. I used a Metolius TCU as supplement pro after the roof to the right.


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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 12, 2002

2 stars - I don't think so.. This route is pretty much a pile, especially once you have cleared the roof, rock wuality goes downhill very fast. Sure the roof is fun, but really this route is not worth doing IMHO. Don't bother to hike to try to find this one. 1 star would be pushing it.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 12, 2002

The route shown in the pictures is actually "Warren's in the House - 10b' not 'Energy... - 10c' but the last comment remains the same for both of these routes.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 12, 2002

If you're talking about the photo by W. Prehm underneath, it is definitely Energy Before Ecstasy ! A great route if you turn the roof straight up the middle; but once you get over, expect some bad run-outs! Really poor bolting above the roof.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 13, 2002

Regarding the bad bolting job ? I am not sure what you would expect ? The bolts do not define 'bad-runouts' by far. The route is also defined in the guide book (Knapp guide) by the name 'Warren's in the House' and rated 10b, as the route which climbs the roof to the left is Energy rated 10c. ?????
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 13, 2002

I'll have to check my Knapp guide to see if he has the routes wrong but the route to the left that you are refering to is Hostile Crankover (11c), the route in the picture is "Energy..." and the actual route "Warrens in the Bank" is several yards to the right and is a very hard to spot slab -arete affair.
By Fred Knapp
Nov 9, 2004

I was wrong. War in the bank is the funky slender west-facing prow right of this route. This is Energy.
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I don't care what you all think, this is a fun moderate roof with a little weird traversing back and forth above. I liked it. The route to the left is not 11c, that's around the corner on the obvious blade of rock.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 22, 2014

The climbing is OK, but the bolting somewhat lacking, perhaps because they were trying to force the line too much. The runout above the second roof is bad not only due to lack of pro but because the rope tends to catch under the roof. An added bolt would fix that. There's also a loose block near the top that needs to go too.