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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Peter Noebels, John Fowler,'81
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 12, 2009
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Geir Hundal, getting the easy pro placed on this h...


Neat looking line that is way more in your face than you might think. Pro is good but hard to place at times. Be sure there is no vegetation growing out of the crack as you will need to place pro in those spots. Pretty fun climbing and if the pro was easier to place I would call it a great climb. Hanging on to place gear will work you as much as the climbing.


Just left of Guardians Edge. Crack climb out the left side of a small roof.


double rack to purple camalot and maybe one green. I used brass nuts as well. We used the anchors for I Want My Mummy to lower off.

Photos of Energized Slideshow Add Photo
EFR after the crux.
EFR after the crux.
EFR hanging on.
EFR hanging on.
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

This route is great but it is committing and strenuous to protect. A nut tool was handy to clean out some placements. Small came, RPs, and a couple of ball nuts are very helpful. The largest piece I placed was a #2 Camalot. Make sure you lead head is clear for this one.