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Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
Holds are thin getting up the first 30 feet. Once you pass the 3rd bolt the rating drops from 5.9 to 5.2 the rest of the way. Belay at about 80ft for the harder sport climb. 2nd pitch is a 5.2 romp up the ridge to the summit for a full rope length.
Left side of Hyperion Slab.
|By Spider Savage|
Apr 10, 2010
Upgraded from 5.9 to 5.10b. The first time you climb it it can be hard. Especially for shorter people. There are a couple of long reaches that are easier for me at 6'1" that require the full wingspan.
Mar 27, 2011
At 6'0" I can just barely clip the bolt at the crux before fully commiting. It's a fun climb, but the crux clip isn't exactly optimal.
Edit: I guess this comment belongs to Aenea
|By Benjamin Chapman|
Dec 28, 2011
The 1st three bolts on "Endymion" are spinners, but the one that counts at the crux is solid. Protection consists of 5 bolts & a 2-bolt anchor with large screwlinks.
Feb 3, 2012
I am 6'4 and the move felt like an easy 5.10. However, when my girlfriend, who is 5'6, tried this she struggled to reach the handhold making it much harder for her.