Endless Torment 5.10b
| 2,259 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Jonathan and Alison Smoot |
| Submitted By: | Louis Arevalo on Jul 15, 2003 |
| |
Running low on chalk early, I eye the distance up.
Add Photo Printer View
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
Little Cottonwood Access Update Despite "no trespassing" signs climbers have been observed crossing the creek on the pipe at the traditional (pumphouse) parking for the Pentapitch/Coalpit areas. This pipe crossing is dangerous and a slip could be fatal. This area is privately owned and the SLCA has a positive relationship with the landowner. The bridge near Lisa falls is the preferred location to cross the creek. Down-canyon, the bridge leading to the south side near the Buzz bouldering area has been condemned by the Forest Service. Signs have been posted promising fines for tresspassers. We ask that you obey these signs and find an alternate route to your destination.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description To the left of Pentapitch, the route is rarely occupied. Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.
Protection Handful of tcu's and a few draws
I swear, half the time on the rock, I am chalking ...
| This would be the line, from the midway belay, to ...
| |
| Comments on Endless Torment |
|
By Anonymous Coward Jul 19, 2004
| did this route the other day, wonderful climb! What is the bolted line starting just right and shares the end section of Torment? Used HB's in several locations, considered them more bomber than tcu's in a couple of spots. |
By Nathan Fisher Jul 2, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Great route with a bit of variety, some spicy protection, and delicate moves. I got off route and did the (Endless Seagull?) variation. After the 5.10b crux, I wandered left on to Lesbian Seagulls, and did that 5.10d d-d-d-delicate move, past the two bolts. |
By John Bradford From: Lilongwe, Malawi Oct 20, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Good to do both pitches in one lead, as there are no chains at the first belay, and it is otherwise a bit short. It is possible to get down from the top with one rope (with rope stretch! so tie a not) and you wind up just behind the tree at the bottom. From the first set of anchors, I climbed up through two bolts and traversed right across the face to the undercling. A bit run out on thin moves, but very exciting! |
By Tea May 16, 2007
| A must do pitch on the circuit. Too bad it now sports a poorly located bolt down low, placed by some total nutsack not involved in the FA. Great full pitch. |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Jun 13, 2008
| That bolt is useless, there's pro 6" from it. The climbing is really fun and quite technical, especially for the 9+ given in the book for the first part. The slaby moves to get to the first belay feel quite spicy since your last micro is a ways down. I'll be back to do the second half |
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Jul 3, 2009
| A 70m rope gets you down in one rap. |
By triznuty From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 20, 2009
| First pitch is good in its own right. A better description of the second pitch would be nice too. |
By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 22, 2011 rating: 5.10b PG13
| Wonderful line - classic LLC slab and thin lie off climb. Why it took me nearly 30 years to do this is unclear. The route combines the need for gear placement skills with thin slab technique and has a nice little runnout near the top (why would anyone stop at the chains - do the whole pitch for the full experience). As for the question above regarding the upper part of the climb - climb past the midway bolts to a short lie back straight above (good gear), clip the bolt, climb up and right on slab to the left facing shallow corner, clip a bolt, climb up to a pin and then back to the belay chains. |
By Spencer Weiler From: SLC, UT Aug 7, 2011
| Not for the faint of heart. The first pitch has good gear up until a spicy traverse right to the belay chains has you at least 10 feet above your last placement. The 2nd pitch looks sparse to get to the first bolt but a .3 camalot crack appears in the short dihedral. Clip the first bolt, then run it out on thin slab to the 2nd thin dihedral with NO GEAR! Luckily it gets easier once you hit the dihedral and the 2nd bolt appears after you land your foot on a huge jug. This is a 20 foot stretch above that last bolt. Clip the 3rd fixed piece, a pin, and its over. Basically bring 3 draws and a .3 camalot for this pitch. Yikes. |
|