|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||The first six pitches done in 1991 by Greg Davis and Todd Bibler, ending 150 feet below Broadway. Roger Briggs & Chip Chace added the last pitch|
|Submitted By:||Bob Rotert on Jul 24, 2007|
|Comments on Endless Summer||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Stefan Griebel
Aug 16, 2010
P7 is rumored to have not yet seen a 2nd ascent. I headed up there to give it a try (unsuccessfully) on 8/7/2010, but certainly had an adventure. Pitch breakdown, ratings and description (by Bob Rotert) are spot on, although he underplays the severity of this climb. Scope out the wetness situation before heading up. If there is a lot of water everywhere, I would recommend choosing a different route.
P1 definitely needs a bolt for an anchor. An old pin and tiny nut are a bit scary. Backed up by a cam at your feet. If I attempt this route again, I will definitely put in an anchor there.
P2 sees runouts of 5-8' above a fixed copperhead, which is 5-8' above another fixed head, which is 5-8' above a decent pin, but a pin nonetheless. Looking at a 20-40' fall there if the heads rip. PG-13 or R for sure in my mind. Fortunately, the climbing is dry!
P3 is a very serious lead involving lots of traversing across unprotected slabby ramps that were running with water when we were there. 30' sideways from a small alien placement feels R or X to me. The corners were also running with water, and had to be climbed through. This was far and away the most exciting and scary pitch of the day. We also got hit by rockfall while I was belaying from the top of this pitch. Fortunately, nothing really big hit us and the blood didn't drip into my eyes too much.
P4 more wetness, although not as runout or hard as P3.
P5. This pitch is great. Gear is plentiful, rock is mostly good, interesting and challenging moves, belayer is at a comfy ledge. I emptied the whole rack into this pitch, except for the very small stuff (blue/purple Aliens, RPs) All the gear seemed very good, and the fall potential was quite tame compared to P3.
These 5 pitches with the wetness and rockfall had taken us so long that we made the difficult decision to bail from here, even though the next pitch looked to be more of the same high quality, dry rock as P5.
Regarding the rack. The very small stuff must be for P7 as we used nearly zero of it for the lower pitches. I would add a 3rd yellow Alien. Or maybe just take a whole rack of yellow aliens as it seemed that was always the piece I needed and I never had....
Raps are off of big, new bolted anchors, which I assume were installed by Chip and Roger very recently. Thanks, guys!!