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Endless Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Hurley and Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 2,458
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Aug 11, 2001

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Endless Crack
I think you can see both "ends" of ...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the right side of the book and is marked by the crack that begins about 15 up and then fades out again about 70 feet up the cliff. There is a line of old bolts just to the right of the crack (Pizza Face).

Begin to the right of the crack. Scramble up and clip the first bolt (new) on Pizza Face, then make the crux move left to get established in the crack. Work your way up the crystalline crack until it starts to fade. I got a couple TCUs in here, then headed up and right across the face towards the last bolt on Pizza Face. This bolt is an antique, and should probably be replaced. Head due right to the crack/corner, and follow that (5.7) to the sling anchor. It is a 100 foot rappel from here to the ground. The route does continue, but by this point you've climbed the 'Endless' crack. ~150'

Per Errett Allen: Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block.

P2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left-facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. ~150'

P3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. ~75'

P3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. ~130'

P3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right-slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7.

P4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits. ~75'


Protection 

Standard Lumpy rack. Eds. extra small gear, RPs, TCUs or Aliens may be useful for P3.



Photos of Endless Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Tom on the traverse after the crack peters out.  (Looking down the Pizza Face. BTW, there's only 2 bolts left, counting the 1st one on EC.)
Tom on the traverse after the crack peters out. (...
Comments on Endless Crack Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

PizzaFace was still baking in the oven when Hurley/Rearick climbed Endless Crack and placed the 1st bolt (later replaced),S.Kimball.

By Errett Allen
Aug 12, 2002

The rest of this route is worthwhile and should be included in the description. Rather than stop at the slings mentioned as the top of pitch one, you can continue climbing 50 feet higher in the dihedral which allows you to belay on a big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block. 2. From the sandy ledge, climb up and left across slab and disconnected cracks to an obvious straight-in fist crack. Ascend this crack, then climb left and up across a few disjointed cracks. Make a few easy face moves left into a left facing dihedral and follow it to the belay ledge at the top of the crux pitch of Femp -- 5.7. This pitch is wandering and mostly uninteresting but the fist crack is sweet. 3. Make face moves out right toward a tiny pine tree on the lower left side of Kite Slab and enter a beautiful clean thin crack just above the pine (RP & small stoppers). Ascend this crack to a stance -- 5.9. From here there are two options. 3a. Continue climbing up and right to a break in the roof above, which can be pulled through on a wedged block -- 9+ and belay above the roof. 3b. Follow the crack system up and left, do some face moves to the roof when the crack peters out, move left and climb through the break in the roof band into a right slanting flake and chimney system (this is the finish to Femp). Belay on a large ledge about 30-40 feet up the flake/chimney system -- 5.7. 4. Do short and easy summit pitch ending near the Cave Exits.

By paco
Mar 25, 2003

The exit (traverse) bolt at the top of the first pitch has been replaced with a neat, new one.

By John Keller
Jul 12, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just did this route yesterday and it was quite good. I agree that the full route description should be included. The crack and thin face work on the third pitch along the edge of kite slab should not be missed. The description in the above comment is really good as it describes making your choice of roof exit early after the main crack in the third pitch. I didn't do this and found myself under what turned out to be the 9+ roof exit. However, it's damn hard to switch to another exit once your under the roof. The 9+ looks increadibly intimidating and I wasn't sure that it wasn't the 11a. Anyway, it's a fantastic finish to a very good route.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2009

On P1: Instead of heading over to the bolt after the crack ends, quest upwards on the face straight up. This leads to another overlap where you can get some gear. Keep going up, traverse left to a water groove where you can get a good #0.3 Camalot, and then reverse the traverse back right onto the face, and belay on the "big comfortable sandy ledge behind a large block" above the mentioned slings at the end of Mission Impossible. A quick down lead will get you to the rap station.

This is an excellent face journey, though serious/very serious in the 5.7 range.

By Brad Brandewie
Sep 4, 2009

I thought that the variation that Tim mentions was harder than 5.7. I also thought it was deserving of a very serious rating. You're looking at a 50 footer down the slab if you blow it just before the overlap. I can't remember if you would hit the ground if you blew it there but it would be ugly in any case.

From the crack, I headed up and slightly left to a stance on the arete hoping to find some gear. There was none so I had to continue to the overlap.

If memory serves, this is called the FINE variation in the Rossiter book and is given a 5.9 rating.

By allen light
Sep 5, 2012

I have done this route a couple times and never have pulled off the 9+ roof option near the top. I think the climb is better than the 2 1/2 star rating. I've always belayed behind a block after the first pitch and done the route in 3 long pitches. To those of you who can do the 9+ roof up high, is it really a 9 and not 10b or c? I can usually do a 9 (esp. after 2 tries). If there was a trick to make it easier, I failed to find it!

By Mitch Musci
Nov 12, 2013

I would not trust my life to the wedged flake on the 9+ roof finish. It has an obvious crack all the way around it, and it appears you have no option but to yard on it to pull the roof (and probably put gear behind it). Not to mention it looks like choss. I'm glad that others have been able to climb it, but please be careful up there and remember Lumpy is a prime venue for frost wedging.