Ending Crack 5.7 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Don Lauria, Dennis Hennek, Tom Ridenour |
| Season: | year round but winter thr |
| Submitted By: | Davi Rivas on Feb 13, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).
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Description P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay. P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors. Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel.
Protection Carry pro to 3 inches.
Mike Nesbitt of Ventura, all smiles on P1 of Endin...
| BETA PHOTO: This is the two bolt rappel station about 70 ft. u...
| Nate Conroy looks for pro on Ending Crack's first ...
| Nate Conroy, Ending Crack
| Patty Fienup high on the first pitch of Ending Cra...
| Matt "Sharma" Geyer on Ending Crack (5.7) gunning ...
| Jeff "boldly" following Ending Crack (5.7). Don't ...
| Jeff (again) following Ending Crack (5.7).
| BETA PHOTO: Topo Showing Ending Crack (5.7) and some of the ne...
| Matt's a Crack Addict after cruisin' up Ending Cra...
| Rob Chaney and Tim Lister at The first belay as se...
| Tim Lister of Oxnard cleans Ending crack
| Rob Chaney of Ventura belaying Tim Lister of Oxnar...
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By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Feb 13, 2006
| Ending Crack is hands down the best multipitch crack climb on the entire Central Coast. The first pitch is an incredible handcrack that takes gear like nobody's business. The second pitch is a little heads-up. Once the crack ends (yeah, that's why they call it Ending Crack), it's a little tricky to protect. Rap the route w/ 2 ropes. 300'. |
By Don Lauria Feb 24, 2006
| Quite frankly, I have no recollection of doing this route. Does anyone know when Dennis and I did it? I guess I could ask Dennis ... he only recently turned 60 and his memory is probably better than mine. Lauria |
By Chiranjeeb Buragohain Feb 26, 2006 rating: 5.6 PG13
| Did this route yesterday. I found both pitches were of equal difficulty (5.6) and in fact, the second pitch felt a little more insecure because it was hard to protect as Mike Morley mentioned before. On the second pitch small cams (red alien and smaller) might make the protection better. The first pitch is great though. This route (first pitch) and Tree Root are great places for trad climbers to start. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Mar 16, 2006 rating: 5.7 PG13
| The first pitch of Ending Crack absolutely swallows passive gear and cams, making this the single best beginner's lead in Ventura and Santa Barbara. As mentioned, the second pitch is anything but. |
By Sirius From: Oakland, CA May 3, 2007
| Don Lauria's comment above is a classic. He must not have liked it as much as the rest of us! |
By Erik Anderson From: Ventura, CA Jul 9, 2007
| Thanks for the bolt clean-up! There's no need for any more bolts on Sespe! In fact, I was kind of surprised when the bolted rap stations went in a while back, but I guess they saved the trees. |
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Apr 28, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
| I find it helpful to carry 2 sets of TCUs for the second pitch. |
By Joseph Stover From: Santa Barbara, CA Sep 4, 2011 rating: 5.7
| The second pitch (~5.7 maybe +) is definitely harder and headier than the first (~5.6). My partner said the second pitch of ending crack felt more like the first pitch on tree route. Beautiful multi-pitch climb, as both pitches are long. Definitely a must do, and a must repeat. On P2: I thought there was only about a 10-20 ft section where the pro was really not great. Overall the pro was a bit trickier as well, several spots where you just plug n go possibly mental pro. About 25 ft below the end, where the crack ends, I just traversed right about 5 ft and got into the next crack over which still was not easy to protect initially (I think I threaded a sling through a hole in the rock for mental pro) but probably less scary than runout face. I was wearing new shoes which started hurting so bad, that it added to the intensity of the climb making it really mentally challenging to do with what felt like toes clamped in vice grips. Also, I don't think my 70m would have made the rappel from the first anchor (which as I understand is not really a belay anchor, however, we had the wall to ourselves, so we just belayed from it with no problems). 2 double rope raps to get to the ground from the top. Didn't do the third pitch. |
By William Domhart From: San Luis Obispo, CA Feb 18, 2013 rating: 5.7
| For the 2nd pitch, we did a variation where I moved to the left aiming towards the big tree on the ledge after the crack ended. Had to run it out because the rock quality was pretty bad, but it was fun and spicy. We only had 1 60-m rope, so we descended down the gulley and rapped 15-20 feet to the platform. |
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