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 ADVANCED
East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

End to End 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Johnson and Ed (Lou?) Kalina, 1986
Page Views: 2,541
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: End to End as seen from the base of the route.

Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is excellent face climbing on the glassy east face of Kindergarten Rock, with generally solid rock and incut holds. End to End is the second bolted route to the right of the obvious New Era dihedral (just left of Bob's Buttress Crack, around the corner), ascending the slightly overhanging northern aspect of the arete past several bolts to a bolted rap station. A 50m rope is sufficient to set up a TR here if desired.

Protection 

8 or 9 (6) QDs plus something for the bolted anchor.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 5, 2002

Bring some tie-off's if you intend to lead this--one of the pins is only sunk about 1 1/2"; some of the others aren't much better. This is a good route to run TR laps on: it is sustained, interesting, and has countless variations, due to the plethora of incuts. Don't just lock on to the chalked hold if you run some laps--look and feel around for more and the line can be much more fun.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

Gear Alert
I agree - great route to run laps on. It's getting tougher and tougher to gain the anchor, though. Tie-offs won't do it anymore, as pins are missing. We climbed Bob's crack and toproped off of that to reach the still solid End anchor.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 10, 2008

I'm glad that someone else noticed that it was sustained. Whew! I also agree about the TR... we did End of an Era and then TR'd End to End. Good thing, too. I would have had a few bruises.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The moves are continuously 10a, with some fun clips. If this were any more overhanging, it would be 11. Also, a healthy 30' runout on 5.8 terrain to the first pin gets your blood pumping for the rest of this exciting lead.

My only complaint was that it felt a bit contrived, and it was difficult to keep my hands away from the arete to the climber's left and the large crack to the climber's right.
By matt bruton
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Tightened the first bolt and the anchors today. Great route the pitons are still strong and should hold through the rest of the year.
By EricJochens
From: Co Springs, CO
Aug 30, 2010

Awesome route! Excellent warm up and pumpy crimps straight to the end. Would be excellent if the pitons were retrobolted. Some day I will learn to do this and contribute myself. Try the Death of a Dinosaur on the left-side of the arÍte and traverse right to End to End once you reach the first bolts for a really fun climb.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

6 QDs plus anchor. I ripped pretty good today on no. 6, and it held like a champ.
By Stewart M. Green
Aug 18, 2012

Brian Shelton and I, along with David Mason and Robb Conner, took out the old pitons and rebolted Sandy Monster and End to End with beefy new bolts. Some of the angles were solid, but most came out without too much work. So climb on.... Thanks, Dave and Robb, for buying the hardware!
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 30, 2012

I could be mistaken, but I believe the FA was by Mike Johnson and Lou Kalina.

More importantly, has anyone heard anything about what happened to this guy??? If so, please let me know, as he pretty much went M.I.A. close to 8 (?) years ago.
By R Kil
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Thank you to Stewart and friends for the rebolting. I was pleasantly surprised last week.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Oct 15, 2012

Very sustained 10! Sharp, solid holds. Either place first pro on the neighboring 5.8, or slip a 0.5 cam in on Bob's Buttress, then climb left back on to End to End. Fun climb.
By Kyle Bichler
From: Cleveland, OH
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beautiful climb which is a very sustained 5.10 to the finish. A must do along with End Of An Era.