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End Pin
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End Pin T,S 

End Pin 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Wiegand & Cleveland '70. FFA: Goldstne & Williams, '75
Season: any
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 30, 2006

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Dave Rone just above the crux on End Pin. July 201...

Description 

A great route, but a rough intro as a first route in the needles. It requires great faith in the friction here.
Climb up the East Face cracks past a bit of gear and a pin, reaching a bolt. Get into a good stance and figure your way past a bulge just below a second bolt, you may or may not decide to place a micro-cam in a little constriction below a slick fingerlock entering the crux. I placed it. My partner did not. Then again, I caught a few hefty falls due to that too... I think it would hold a fall. Anyway, it is a little in the way of the climbing. COmplete the crux, reach over and clip the second bolt, then proceed on pretty good holds and easier moves (5.8+?) to the top, but probably pumped.


Location 

On the East Face of the End Pin, staring you in the face as you look at the End Pin formation.


Protection 

A few small cams and nuts plus 2 bolts.



Photos of End Pin Slideshow Add Photo
Not over til it is over. Dave Rone. July, 2013.
Not over til it is over. Dave Rone. July, 2013.
Comments on End Pin Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

This route is on the NORTH face of the End Pin, not the EAST face. There is currently a bomber bolt anchor on the summit, and it looks as though the two bolts on the route have been replaced recently.

By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 24, 2011

When Williams and I did the FFA in 1975, there was no bolt (and no other pro) after the crux.