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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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End of the Tether 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: CCliffe on Jul 26, 2011

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Description 

A great route not often done. The crack begins about 6 feet in the air and most people aid the beginning (A0 11d); it has gone free at 12a (by sum wikkid tall guy who did a 1 arm pull-up). Gain the crack and layback up to a small rest ledge. Traverse right and pull a tough move to gain the upper part of the climb (where you will find two pitons); you get a pretty good rest. then continue traversing right, on small feet and ok underclings in the crack (hope you don't have fat sausage fingers like I do). then zip up the dihedral to a cluster f*** anchor (pretty standard for the area - i always trust em). then lower yourself down to the roof and watch your second.

I think it is the fingery sister climb to the Bridge of Khazad-Dm at Cathedral. It is a great climb that most people don't do - it just takes a little bit of work.

Not sure if the end of this one will stay dry in the rain.


Location 

Start on the boulder under the right roof and to the left of Toothless Grin.


Protection 

Small nuts, small cams, a 6 foot tall friend to place the gear in the bottom, and a smile



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 26, 2011

Great add ! Russ Clune did a one arm start (he's pretty tall,strong too.) But trust me you can do half a pull and then fire in the other hand.
Well geared with work, pumpy.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 27, 2013

I was belaying Russ the day he freed that opening move (1984/85?). Yes, he's pretty tall and mighty strong, but nonetheless, that tiny jam that he pulled up on (after a little jump as I remember) was breathtaking to behold. The rest of us got a boost to keep the opening moves at a more reasonable (and less tendon-shredding) grade. The rest of the pitch is no slouch, either, with quite the sting in the tail around the final roof. Glad to "have done it"...can just walk under it and smile, now. And yes, it should stay dry in the rain.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 28, 2013

So a one arm pull-up off a small jam equals 12a? Yeah right!

By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 28, 2013

I think ANY one arm equals at least 12A !