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 ADVANCED
Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral T,TR 
Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
Generation Gap S 
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 
High School Romancer TR 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 
Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

End of the Innocence 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: This has been a historic top-rope route. First sport lead, Ron Long
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,218
Submitted By: Ron L Long on Jun 29, 2007

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End of the Innocence to the right

Curse of the Dr...

Description 

This is the first route you will come across after passing the south end of the bluff.

Gain the first bolt after 15 ft of easy climbing. A longer draw on the first bolt will hang better. Climb the increasingly steepening face (slab-near vertical) right of the bolts using horizontal seams and face holds. The route finishes with an interesting lie-back/undercling move to gain ledges right of the anchors.


Protection 

five bolts



Photos of End of the Innocence Slideshow Add Photo
Myself on End of the Innocence.  Belayed by Ron L Long.  Photo by Peter "Trundle Pete" Dodge.
Myself on End of the Innocence. Belayed by Ron L ...
Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Andy at the chains on End of Innocence.
Nick on one of his first leads. Great route for a new leader.
Nick on one of his first leads. Great route for a ...
Comments on End of the Innocence Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Given the well-protected and engaging climbing it offers, this route is destined to become very popular.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jun 29, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

An instant classic now that it's been caressed by the drill...

By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jun 29, 2007

Sweet route and the last layback/undercling move is awesome.

By James23
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2007

"End" and "Curse" were both fun climbs, and the first time leader with me didn't think they were overbolted. Believe it or not, I had a great time just climbing instead of angrily calculating the # of bolts per ft...Thanks...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb. The layback at the end is fun to pull. This area is just beautiful.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a winter adventure on the way up to do Wisconsin's High Point. Stopped here and did this climb. The crag was a little dirty, as to be expected from nobody climbing on it in a while, but none the less, was a good 1st climb of the day. Sandstone is so cold even when the sun bakes on it.

By Tyler Lawton
Nov 13, 2011

Nice fun start route. Took a group of kids down there this summer on a summer climbing and they all enjoyed it.