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End Chimneys, Right 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Bill Lawry on Feb 20, 2008
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Description 

Climb the right side of detached blocks that have a small tree on top, and face-climb up and right until established in the crack. I felt the crux was the lower part of the off-width section. I have very little off-width experience and so this section likely felt two grades harder than reality. Hence, the 5.7 rating is mainly based on Bob Kerry's guide.

The route transitions into a large chimney eventually shared with the left crack. However, about where the off-width turns into a chimney (which happened to be after using up all my big gear; see below), I bailed out of the crack up rightward onto a sea of plates. I then followed someone else's blood trail to the top, adding a bit to it. Finally, I stepped left across the chimney to the anchors. Another more experienced person in our party top-roped the chimney section and felt it was good "chimney college." Perhaps someone else will comment on the protection in the chimney section.

Double-rope rap back to the base.

Make your best guess as to which side to put in the off-width/chimney. But consider switching if it is not getting you much mileage.


Location 

Locate the large roof on the left side of the main face. To the left of the roof is a smaller face perpendicular to the main face. End Chimneys consist of two separate large cracks that join roughly 25 feet before a horizontal crack with chained anchors. The two large cracks vary from off-width near the bottom to chimney near/at the top. For a picture, see page 214 of Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. The above description is for the right crack.


Protection 

I took five cams from 4" to 7" and felt like I could have used a couple more in that range. Someone more familiar with off-widths may be quite happy with less. I also used several medium-sized cams and several medium-sized nuts for the above variation.



Comments on End Chimneys, Right Add Comment
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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 21, 2008

HAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAA!!!

I remember doing this thing years ago!

Seemed a bit harder than 5.7!!!

Let's call it 5.7+...

J

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 30, 2009

I also escaped at the top of the offwidth section and headed off to the right, up the chickenhead face. The chimney looked deep and wide and scary, and of dubious protectability.
We only took one rope, so we skipped the chains and topped out on a ledge up and left of the Stage Fright anchor. We sought out Kerry's "non-technical descent route" to the north -- the start is a little technical, but it goes. From the summit ledge, it also appears (?) that you could descend the south side with one rope by scrambling down the gully to skier's right, rap from a slung boulder to a pine tree, and then a second rap to the ground.