Enchanted Tower 

In a conversation with Adam Read (Tower first acensionist and geologist at NM Tech) Adam stated that The Tower is actually a clastic flow and not welded tuff. I write this just for info and not to argue anything. Maybe if Adam ever reads this he can comment further.

Anyone been out to the tower recently? I'm curious about the road conditions with respect to all of the snow we've gotten.

Thanks

My buddy and I took a spring break tour down south with the intentions of going to Mexico. We took a wrong turn at Albuquerque, and ended up in enchanted tower. Some of the coolest pockets, crappy road entry, and a New Mexico sunset kept us there for another week...Worth every second of it. The caves are rifle like but not rifle grade. Very few people and a lot more routes to be discovered but not bolted. Amazing!

I was wondering if anyone climbs here during the winter months. I saw that is at 8000 ft I'm looking at hitting this place up in mid january but with all the snow lately Im kinda worried if its worth it?

Hey Devin, I've not heard of anyone climbing here in winter. In a typical winter you'd probably need to snowshoe or ski on the road beyond the ranch house. I'm not sure about this but it certainly wouldn't surprise me. Then, of course, that would lead to parking near the ranch house which wouldn't be cool with the owners.
Also, the routes generally face west which would mean some very chilly climbing for much of the day until the sun came around.
If you're in the area in January, the climbing closer to Socorro Area would be a much better bet.
That said, I live quite far north from the Tower so I'm by no means an expert.

Thanks for the info Jason. I'm also from Los, but go to school in las Cruces so I was hoping to hit up the tower on my way down in jan. but Soccoro probably would be a safer bet. Hopefully the snow will clear enough that i can climb a bit while I'm up here.

I called the number listed above(520-326-1449) to see about the gate code,this isn't the number to stoneage gym, its to the lady who publishes the datil guide. She said there isn't a lock onthe gate anymore.

augie: Could not agree with you more. TP is all over the place. At a very minimum, dig deep and burn the TP (make sure the fire's OUT!) or, an even better solution is to bring Wag Bags and take it out with you - there are tons of nice, convenient trash bins on the highway back to Magdalena to drop it off in. See this discussion for more: Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?

This is a good and necessary discussion.

The idea of wag bags = a good one in my opinion. When I get around to it, I will include a link to this discussion and add some comments to the area description.

Great idea about adding some info to the main page about Wag Bags and/or Restop 2 bags, Anthony. I never go to the Tower without them and bring enough for my friends. Super convenient to use (easier than any other option, really) and there is a public dumpsters area right in Datil so there's really no reason to not use these there. Let's spread the word and encourage the use of these bags at ET.

I would like to think that most (some?) people that climb at the Tower are interested in keeping it clean. WagBags/RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution - aside from the expense and having to go purchase them, which may deter some. For those not up to such a monumental challenge, an alternative is to use a bucket (2-gallon?) with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your bizness in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You can even add litter or some other liquid absorbing media to the bag if you're wanting to get fancy, or just do that half outside the bucket. Works like a charm and sitting on the bucket can be pretty comfy for the more enduring (pumpy, in climber terms) efforts...

Thanks Jason, perhaps that information on the introduction page will help. I think donated wag bags would help too. ON another note, perhaps we could encourage people to camp at the datil well campgound as well? I know this has become the preferable alternative to some ABQ climbers and it makes some sense. The toilets are already there and they are only 15 minutes away. Maybe a mention of this in the intro as well. I am sure that some people would rather do this than pack out their poo. Or at least I hope so.

Just went and bought one of these ( www.cabelas.com/p-0009518.shtml ) for my trip to ET. Cheap and simple.

Augie - Probably not. I would much rather camp at the tower campground than at Datil well, as I am sure the majority of climbers would as well. Nothing like being right at the crag when you wake up in the morning. There are few places that is an option.

If you have never used one of those wag bags it's really not all that bad. Seriously. Everything is quite contained. I recommend giving it a whorl.

Tom brought up another good option, the luggable loo. It's a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. I also found that you can pick up bags for it at Wall-Mart. They can go into the trash can on your way home. The nice thing is it's all contained into a bucket and you just dump the bucket out.

Just gave the Luggable Loo it's maiden voyage to the Tower. I wish I had bought one of these years ago. It's more comfortable than squatting and more convenient than digging a hole. The lid snaps down to hold a wag bag firmly in place and the bag is easy to change. I paid $16 for the bucket and lid. Bags are a bit expensive ($2.95), but they are biodegradable. I plan on putting a sicker on "Lou" (I've named him) from everywhere he goes, but I could not find any stickers in Datil or Magdalena. If anyone knows of a sticker representing the area, I would love to get a hold of one.

What is the "Season" a the tower? It is not noted above.

Season is all through the fall and spring. Particularly good in the fall, when temps are perfect, winds low, and leaves turning.Fall's particulaly good for sending.

Depending on the weather Datil could be good, though you will want to climb in the sun for sure. Remember that Datil is somewhere around 8,000 feet, but if the sun is out and the wind is calm.

I know people who have climbed at the tower in December but it is more of a local thing since you can just go when the weather allows. You would definitely be taking a chance with a road trip in November. Also most routes only receive afternoon sun, so unless you are wanting to get on the two routes on the Renissance wall your days will be short.

If you do go I would recommend being willing to move to Socorro, Alamogordo (Tunnel) or Last Chance where it is easier to climb in the sun.

I read the mention of packing out waste and thought id share a product I use. Its called a Biffy Bag and it is far superior to the Wag Bag and Reststop systems. It does not require a bucket or commode and comes with everything you need in a little package. It has a triple sealed puncture proof containment bag which prevents all odor and chance of leaking. WONDERFUL product I recommend to everyone. The rammifications of human waste are seriously effecting these beautiful areas we love so much so I ask everyone to address this matter more seriously.

Just wondering if anyone more local to the Tower than me has considered replacing all the time bomb bolts and hangers that exist on nearly every route there? Beware. Many recalled SMC hangers. Many lower grade Redhed style bolts. Rusty. Crap. Never mind the missing hanger on Rumplestiltskin.

I would second Tim Kuss' comment about hardware updates. I noticed more than a few bolts (on Shipwrecked for e.g.) that are from the mid-nineties and should really be replaced.

I HAD A BLAST....but

I wasn't impressed with the 30 year old SMC bolt hangers. Also clipped some odd questionable chains with hundreds of rusted washers and lowering on a single ancient carabiner is so 1980's.

I'd be willing on donating hangers etc. to locals if need be. I'll even help do the work. This place is so cool it needs attention.

Regarding the hardware, there was a motivated local named James Hunter who was doing updates. He was focused on the anchors and fixed many of the sketchy older jobs. He has since moved away. Getting replacement gear is not a problem. The motivation to fight the crowds at the tower for the same old routes when there is so much other stuff to do, is. For the Socorro folks anyway. Also there is the ongoing effort to mitigate the effects of the many people who camp and poop there, which also generates many complaints from visitors. Why so many people need to drive onto the virgin grass and make a new fire ring, I will never understand.

Back on subject. The tower rock is soft and I imagine some of those old, small bolts are beginning to get weak. Especially those at odd angles near cruxes (for example, i wonder about that second bolt on Blessed and Blissed when I see a dozen falls on it a day, that would be a grounder).

I work a few minutes away and sometimes go to the tower on weeknights after work. It is usually much less crowded then. I lack a drill and experience though. So I will try to drag the guy who has been updating hardware at Box out and maybe we can fix some of this stuff. I have a few routes left to redpoint there.

The main problem at the moment is the impending temporary forest closures due to fire danger. Cibola NF now at Stage II restrictions, so hope for rain!

I did not realized a majority of the routes needed some anchor replacement until friend told me the crux bolt for red/white queen is hanging out of the rock partially. Last time was at the Tower was the early 90's.

After having talked with people who have way more bolting experience than I do, it is my understanding that the Glue-ins are the best option for anchor replacement.

Not sure how much time and money I have got to contribute to this over the summer as I am already committed to other activities. I could loan out a my turbo charged hilti to a responsible and motivated individual as all it is doing is collecting dust right now.

Is the gate open to the tower still as of 10/13/2011?

The last I heard in early October was that there was a closure sign on the road. If the road is posted as closed, please respect the closure and use the Davenport Canyon access. NM CRAG and the Access Fund are currently in discussions with the landowner to clarify the landowners intention with regards to access through Thompson Canyon and will post details here once final word is received from the ranch owners.

Is the gate open? Has anybody been to the Tower in the last couple days?

I am planning on heading out to the tower for Labor Day Weekend. Will the gate be open or should I plan to access the canyon through the other road? Thanks for the help!

You should plan on going the other way since the request of the land owner is that it be closed between September 1st and January 30th. Even if the gate is unlocked you should still go around, remember there are people living there as well and they don't want to always have to be locking and unlocking the gate to get in and out themselves. So just because the gate is unlocked does not mean that it is open and if you go in that way and expect to get out you may find it locked on your way out.

Any new word on access March 2013?

My understanding that the access road is no longer open. We were there 3 weeks ago, and the gate was unlocked. A friend went by last week, and the gate was locked. When I called the gym and asked about the situation, I was informed that the gate is indeed permanently closed, but may be ocassionaly open at the owners' whim.

Type "Davenport Lookout, NM" into google maps for directions on the alternate (now standard) approach. High clearance is nice but not necessary. It takes about an hour if I remember correctly and I think it's always open unless the FS closes it for fires.

Found a grey/black duffle bag with wheels sitting on the side of the dirt road this weekend (4/28/13). It had one pocket open with a few things scattered, it appeared to have fallen off or out of a vehicle. It has women's clothing and other stuff in it. If you are missing your bag let me know and you can pick it up at Stone Age Climbing Gym. If you're not in ABQ you can call the gym and ask for me and we can arrange shipping. (505) 341-2016