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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area 


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Location: 30.5032, -98.8213 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 275,364
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Sep 3, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.


Getting There 

17 miles outside of Fredericksburg via Ranch Road 965. Or take Highway 16 south for 14 miles from Llano and the Ranch Road 965 west to Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.


Fees and Camping 

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $7/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.


Guides and Resources 

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.


201 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',94],['2 Stars',65],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',16],['5.8',27],['5.9',23],['5.10',26],['5.11',11],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',50],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Jack Knife   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Cave Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Cave Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
The Kracken   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Walk In The High Country   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Middle Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Owl Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Pro Sweat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Main Dome : News Wall
Ripple   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Orange Peel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Top Choice   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Carnivore Boulders
Top Choice   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Little Dome : Carnivore Boulders
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Dome : The Shield
Texas Crude   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Main Dome : The Shield
Clockwerk Orange   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Sport   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Shocker   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 30'   Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock
Browse More Classics in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Orlando Teran in the thick of it

Sweat 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : News Wall
Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain li...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Slideshow Add Photo
Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.
Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchante...
Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo Goomba John Sanders, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection.
Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo ...
Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.
Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchant...
Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection
Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Ench...
Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
An enchanted sunset
An enchanted sunset
Cave Crack
Cave Crack
Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the cave.
Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the ca...
Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
BETA PHOTO: Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
TR on Sweat
TR on Sweat
Comments on Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2014
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 15, 2006

For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map

By theleroy
Mar 30, 2007

Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November?

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007

A better resource is www.erockonline.com

By Shawn Gibson
From: San Antonio, Texas
Feb 24, 2008

Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 3, 2008

I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one!

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2009

Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
May 12, 2009

And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with www.rock-about.com. I'd recommend them.

By Fred Knapp
Dec 19, 2010

The new Enchanted Rock guidebook is out! New routes, new photos, etc. Should be in the Austin area shops or online:
sharpendbooks.com/prod.php?t=0&q=29

By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011

I miss e rock! It's where I cut my trad teeth. Hope I'll climb again there someday. I've heard the bouldering has really taken off there.

By trevor becker
Jan 19, 2013

GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Crack climb at Enchanted Rock:

By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Dec 24, 2013

The entry fee is now $7 per person. An annual State Park Pass will wave the fee for everybody in a single vehicle. The pass costs $60, good for 12 months.

By virginiapine
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Apr 8, 2014

Ummm, ERSNA is most definitely SOUTH of Llano, not north...

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2014

OK, the directions were a fail on my part. My apologies to all who went north from Llano. Send all bills to me via MP.

By david Graham
Jun 20, 2014

I'm trying to figure if anyone knows about this crack. If you go past smorgasboard wall (accidentally in my case) there is a boulder (very large) propped against another wall/boulder (can't remember). there is a tiny crack running up the middle of it (by the looks of it i'm not even sure this climb would be possible). You'd remember it because it's practically a cave and the crack is almost at 45 degree overhang. Wondering if this climb already has a name/ascent? there are no chains at the top, doesn't look to be any way to get down, looks like it's never been touched before. Anyone know this place/climb/crack?