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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area 


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Location: 30.5032, -98.8213 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 258,019
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Sep 3, 2006
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Description 

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.


Getting There 

17 miles outside of fredericksburg. Or 24 miles north of Llano on 87.


Fees and Camping 

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $6/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.


Guides and Resources 

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.


201 Total Routes


['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',97],['2 Stars',61],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',16],['5.8',27],['5.9',23],['5.10',26],['5.11',11],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',50],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Jack Knife   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Cave Crack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Cave Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 100'   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Middle Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Owl Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Pro Sweat   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport   Main Dome : News Wall
Little Feat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 40'   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Ripple   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Eat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : Southeast Face
Orange Peel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Top Choice   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Little Dome : Carnivore Boulders
Top Choice   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Carnivore Boulders
Texas Crude   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Dome : The Shield
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Main Dome : The Shield
Clockwerk Orange   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R     Sport   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Shocker   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, 30'   Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock
Browse More Classics in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Stranger starts near red mark on right. Small ramp mid wall starts the right angle to the light spot in dark streak. This is the rap anchor. **Climber on Ripple**

Stranger Than Friction 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : The Shield
The start is slight right of the bolt line up a flake into a dish. Clip first bolt and move left to the second bolt. It is best to remove the first clip as it will cause rope drag. Move past the bolt using a mantle move. This gives way to the second (3rd) bolt. Climb up to a good stance and clip the third (4th)bolt and the next fun moves. A small crack and a fancy foot work gets you past this fun section. Once above the crack you encounter another mantle and access to the fourth (5th) bolt. Move...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Slideshow Add Photo
Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.
Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchante...
Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo Goomba John Sanders, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection.
Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo ...
Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.
Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchant...
Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection
Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Ench...
Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
Cave Crack
Cave Crack
Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the cave.
Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the ca...
Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
BETA PHOTO: Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
Comments on Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2014
By Superclimber
Jan 20, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

ATTENTION: There are many places in the park where you can NOT rap or lower with a 60 Meter rope. In some places not even a 70 Meter rope will make it. Do not assume you can rap or lower off of anything safely even with a 70.

You can not rappel or lower off of Proc Wall, Ripple, Boston, Kraken, or Devil's slide (Mark of the Beast & Harder Than it Looks) with a 60. If you are climbing in any of these areas you must walk off, take two ropes, or find the rap bolts in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 Meter rope will make it from the designated News Wall rappel anchors.

The News Wall anchors are intended as a designated rap station for the Backside. They do not protect any specific climb, nor are they intended for you to hang a rope on and spend the day occupying. These anchors are there specifically as a descent route for parties climbing the Backside.

There are no sport clips anywhere in the park. Basic anchor building skills are pretty much required to climb at Enchanted Rock.

By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 15, 2006

For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map

By theleroy
Mar 30, 2007

Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November?

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007

A better resource is www.erockonline.com

By Shawn Gibson
From: San Antonio, Texas
Feb 24, 2008

Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 3, 2008

I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one!

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2009

Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
May 12, 2009

And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with www.rock-about.com. I'd recommend them.

By Fred Knapp
Dec 19, 2010

The new Enchanted Rock guidebook is out! New routes, new photos, etc. Should be in the Austin area shops or online:
sharpendbooks.com/prod.php?t=0&q=29

By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011

I miss e rock! It's where I cut my trad teeth. Hope I'll climb again there someday. I've heard the bouldering has really taken off there.

By trevor becker
Jan 19, 2013

GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Crack climb at Enchanted Rock:

By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Dec 24, 2013

The entry fee is now $7 per person. An annual State Park Pass will wave the fee for everybody in a single vehicle. The pass costs $60, good for 12 months.

By virginiapine
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Apr 8, 2014

Ummm, ERSNA is most definitely SOUTH of Llano, not north...