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Enchanted Porkfist 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 4,552
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 27, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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Eric Sager getting to the business on Porkfist.

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Description 

Hike to the QOB Pinnacle. Just left of the pinnacle are two quite decent lines up black stone. The left of these is Enchanted Porkfist. Chase the bolts on good pockets interspersed with edgy horrizontal seams. Enchanted is a good warm up for the harder lines at The Dark Side. It seems as though we do this line each time we climb here. Moderate climbing, good stone, nice moves.


Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.



Photos of Enchanted Porkfist Slideshow Add Photo
A little hard to see the holds until you get up to them.
A little hard to see the holds until you get up to...
Enchanted Porkfist, photo credit to Nate.
Enchanted Porkfist, photo credit to Nate.
E.P. high stepping on "Enchanted Porkfist".
E.P. high stepping on "Enchanted Porkfist".
A.S. working the pockets on "Enchanted Porkfist".
A.S. working the pockets on "Enchanted Porkfist".
E.P. getting started on the awesome climb, "Enchanted Porkfist".
E.P. getting started on the awesome climb, "Enchan...
A.S. heading up for a soon to be onsight of "Enchanted Porkfist".
A.S. heading up for a soon to be onsight of "Encha...
E.P. on the final moves to the anchor of "Enchanted Porkfist".
E.P. on the final moves to the anchor of "Enchante...
Comments on Enchanted Porkfist Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jan 20, 2002
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I can't even remember how many times I've done this route! Absolutely the funnest route in the Dark Side and the perfect introduction into "technical" climbing. It's a little harder now since a foothold broke a couple of years ago, (maybe 10d now), but I do this route every time I visit the Dark Side. All it takes is "balance" :)!

By Matt Burns
Nov 7, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This is a great route and if you do it right, it doesn't require the kind of power or endurance that a lot of the other 10s and 11s at Shelf do. There is also a good 10c or 10d just to the left of it that's worth doing if you're there, along with the .9 to the right. None of these three routes are particularly pumpy, so as a group they make a good long warmup if you're a slow starter.

By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Nov 7, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

You're right, Matt, power and endurance isn't worth shite at the "Dark Side" it's all about finese aka "technique and balance", a form of climbing that has all but disappeared from the sport climbing scene. That's why this is my favorite climb at Shelf.

By Tevis Blom
May 2, 2008

Uhhhhh.... I was pretty pumped, but this climb has some really cool improbable holds. 11a.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 30, 2008

One of my favorite .11s at Shelf and my top pick for the Dark Side.

By Tom T
May 9, 2009

A really fun and clean line. It would be more stimulating without the tick marks on every hand and foot hold after the crux.