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George Bell on the first pitch of Enchanted Devil,...
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This is a fun and highly recommended 4 pitch route that joins the East Face and Satan's Slab route on the ridge atop the 3rd section of Satan's Slab.
Hike up Skunk Canyon and move right into the gully between Ridge 1 (Stairway to Heaven) and Satan's Slab (Ridge Two). Hike up the gully for some 200 yards past the first and second pieces of the slab and find a large flat rock at the base of the third piece.
We climbed this route with a 60m rope.
P1- The start of this pitch is the crux and where the route gets its S status. Climb up and left towards the South end of the East face, and find a large pocket/ledge on the arete (50 feet). You could belay there at the tree or continue up the East face close to the Southern arete. We ran up the rope and belayed further up.
P2- From the belay, continue up the face until you reach a block below the ridge of the third piece. At this point the house size boulders between the 3rd and 4th pieces are a few feet to your right. Climb the summit block by traversing a bit South and belay.
From here you can continue up the ridge for a couple more pitches (see Satan's Slab route description) or you can scramble North on the huge boulder, West behind the second boulder and rappel 30 feet West to the Gully between Satan's Slab and Ridge 3 (Angel's Way). Hike South and rejoin Skunk Canyon.
Standard Flatiron rack.
Warren Teissier on the second pitch of Enchanted D...
|Comments on Enchanted Devil
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 22, 2006
While slogging up this gully to try to find this climb, the average bear may find it challenging to figure which is the 3rd section of Ridge Two....
|By Charles Danforth|
From: L'ville, CO
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.4 R
Fantastic route! We found the start of the route pretty easily (apparently, we're above-average bears) and climbed the first two pitches pretty smoothly. Note, we used a 70 meter rope and both pitches were within 5m of the end. A 60m might require some careful management. From below the giant boulder, it's another pitch and a bit to the summit. Great, consistent rock, fantastic positions, and certainly no traffic. Never hard, but never easy. If it wasn't for the somewhat arduous approach and descent, this would be 4 stars for sure. Still one of my favorite Flatiron routes.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.3 R
As Per Leo's comment: to address that concern, just be sure to be and stay right (North) of the massive chockstones that jut out of the gully between the sections in question, producing large roofs. If you are to the right of those, you are in the right place.