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En El Tambo 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Josh Cook & Joe Wildman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: Josh Cook on Jul 18, 2009

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Looking up into the curving corner.


"En El Tambo" climbs the very obvious curving corner up the middle of the wall.

P1 5.10 [50m]: Start on a slab into an arching finger crack in a corner/roof. Pull into a flared offwidth and then move up the crack to a ledge. Traverse the ledge left (careful of rope drag) passing the chossy corners and roofs right below the curving corner pitch.

P2 5.9 [30m]: Various cracks and flakes lead up and right from the ledge. Belay right below the corner.

P3 5.11- [55m]: Climb the curving corner and then traverse under the high roof and up a short crack to arrive at a two bolt belay.

P4 5.11 [30m]: From the two bolt belay traverse left into a hidden crack with huge feet. Bust the crux moving up and left and then follow the corner system back right up into more hard climbing. Pass a protection bolt and arrive at a single bolt and crack belay (crack takes a #1 Camalot or Blue alien in low part).

P5 5.10- [60m]: The dirtiest pitch of the route, but not so bad that it distracts from the quality of the climbing. From the belay climb up the corner and into a chimney. Work though corners and ramps to reach right below the summit. Walk easy third class to top. *Pitch can be broken up to maintain auditory contact between belayer and leader.


Walk off from the top.


Doubles from micros to #2 Camalots. Singles #3 and #4 Camalots. Nuts and Brassies.

Photos of En El Tambo Slideshow Add Photo
En El Tambo follows the obvious corner up the midd...
En El Tambo follows the obvious corner up the midd...
Josh on P2 of En El Tambo
Josh on P2 of En El Tambo

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