En El Tambo  5.11 PG13

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Josh Cook & Joe Wildman New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Josh Cook on Jul 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

En El Tambo follows the obvious corner up the midd...

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Description 

"En El Tambo" climbs the very obvious curving corner up the middle of the wall.

P1 5.10 [50m]: Start on a slab into an arching finger crack in a corner/roof. Pull into a flared offwidth and then move up the crack to a ledge. Traverse the ledge left (careful of rope drag) passing the chossy corners and roofs right below the curving corner pitch.

P2 5.9 [30m]: Various cracks and flakes lead up and right from the ledge. Belay right below the corner.

P3 5.11- [55m]: Climb the curving corner and then traverse under the high roof and up a short crack to arrive at a two bolt belay.

P4 5.11 [30m]: From the two bolt belay traverse left into a hidden crack with huge feet. Bust the crux moving up and left and then follow the corner system back right up into more hard climbing. Pass a protection bolt and arrive at a single bolt and crack belay (crack takes a #1 Camalot or Blue alien in low part).

P5 5.10- [60m]: The dirtiest pitch of the route, but not so bad that it distracts from the quality of the climbing. From the belay climb up the corner and into a chimney. Work though corners and ramps to reach right below the summit. Walk easy third class to top. *Pitch can be broken up to maintain auditory contact between belayer and leader.

Location 

Walk off from the top.

Protection 

Doubles from micros to #2 Camalots. Singles #3 and #4 Camalots. Nuts and Brassies.

Photos of En El Tambo Slideshow

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Looking up into the curving corner.

Josh on P2 of En El Tambo