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Empty Sky Direct 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 77
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Tyson W. on Mar 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Please comment on any corrections/additions.

Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>

The Route 

Pitch 1: climb your choice of the Touch and Go chimney/hand crack behind Rat's Tooth, or Rats Tooth, and belay from the Hungover Hangover anchors, which are about ~8ft below the start of the Hungover Hangover jam crack. There are other ways to get to this belay station, but these two are the most classic.

Pitch 2: Climb the overhanging face/arete left of Hungover Hangover, which has 3 tightly spaced bolts. You should be able to clip the first bolt before cranking any real moves, which is good because the face is very much on you from the start. It is grainy, crimpy, overhung, and a bit stout at the grade (.10c).

After pulling through the crux you will be standing on a tiny ledge on the arete and looking up a shallow corner, which is a bit chossy by Donner standards. It protects though, bring .4 to 2" pieces. Climb up this corner which will end on a clean, blunt, and slabby arete. Climb past two new bolts in about 40ft of climbing. I would guess there is about 25ft between the two bolts, and the climbing isn't dead simple through here. Consensus seems to be .10a PG-13. If it was grid bolted, we would all be downgrading it I'm sure. Stay focused, and choose the path of least resistance. The rock is bulletproof. Trust your smears and edges to get through this very good head crux.

Once past the second bolt, there are a few more opportunities for pro, and the difficulties have mostly relented at this point. Find your way into the last few feet of the Touch and Go corner, which will put you on top of Lizard Ledge.

You can rap with a 70m from here using the the anchors on the climbers right of lizard ledge, the One Hand Clapping anchors. You will rap to the start of the Bliss/Skywalker anchors, and then to the ground. It is close getting to the Bliss anchors, so knot those ends.

Location 

Approach to the One Hand Clapping belay area. Climb Rat's Tooth or Touch and Go Chimney.

Protection 

5 new bolts. Pro to 3"


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By Patrick Mulligan
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I did this as a link up, climbing the 1st pitch of the Rat's Tooth, Hungover Hangover as pitch two, then Empty Sky as pitch 3. I was told that this link up is called Empty Overgo. Its a deserving link up at the grade.
By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I think this listing should be called 'Empty Sky Direct' as described.

Patrick, I think you are right, what you climbed is Empty Overgo. 'Empty Sky' as I understand it is climbing the first two pitches of Skywalker, then finishing on the Empty Sky arete same as Empty Overgo, which clocks in at .10a, and probably warrants a PG-13 distinction.

'Empty Sky Direct', is the slightly overhanging, grainy, crimpy .10c face climbing past 3 closely placed bolts. Start at the Hungover Hangover belay anchors and go up the left facing arete, left of Hungover Hangover.

I've added a beta photo to hopefully help this fairly confusing area.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 4, 2014

Hey Tyson, since you have the beta, I'll move this semi-orphaned page to your account. Then you can update to your heart's content, heh. Rick hasn't been here in like five years.
By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Thanks Justin, page has been updated.