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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 1. Black Wall - Left
Empty Sky Direct
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 8
votes
Routes in 1. Black Wall - Left
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Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bliss T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bliss Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blowups Happen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bourbon Street T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Can't Stop the Dance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cannibal Gully T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Try This At Home S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Empty Overgo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Empty Sky Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fascination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hungover Hangover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lubrication T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Hand Clapping T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinball Junkie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Primer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambo Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rat's Tooth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rythym Killer S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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There Goes The Neighborhood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Touch A Cannibal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touch and Go T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Max Jones, Geoff Smith, 77 |
| Page Views: | 2,071 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tyson Waldron on Mar 15, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
The Route
Pitch 1: climb your choice of the Touch and Go chimney/hand crack behind Rat's Tooth, or Rats Tooth, and belay from the Hungover Hangover anchors, which are about ~8ft below the start of the Hungover Hangover jam crack. There are other ways to get to this belay station, but these two are the most classic.
Pitch 2: Climb the overhanging face/arete left of Hungover Hangover, which has 3 tightly spaced bolts. You should be able to clip the first bolt before cranking any real moves, which is good because the face is very much on you from the start. It is grainy, crimpy, overhung, and a bit stout at the grade (.10c).
After pulling through the crux you will be standing on a tiny ledge on the arete and looking up a shallow corner, which is a bit chossy by Donner standards. It protects though, bring .4 to 2" pieces. Climb up this corner which will end on a clean, blunt, and slabby arete. Climb past two new bolts in about 40ft of climbing. I would guess there is about 25ft between the two bolts, and the climbing isn't dead simple through here. Consensus seems to be .10a PG-13. If it was grid bolted, we would all be downgrading it I'm sure. Stay focused, and choose the path of least resistance. The rock is bulletproof. Trust your smears and edges to get through this very good head crux.
Once past the second bolt, there are a few more opportunities for pro, and the difficulties have mostly relented at this point. Find your way into the last few feet of the Touch and Go corner, which will put you on top of Lizard Ledge.
You can rap with a 70m from here using the the anchors on the climbers right of lizard ledge, the One Hand Clapping anchors. You will rap to the start of the Bliss/Skywalker anchors, and then to the ground. It is close getting to the Bliss anchors, so knot those ends.
Pitch 2: Climb the overhanging face/arete left of Hungover Hangover, which has 3 tightly spaced bolts. You should be able to clip the first bolt before cranking any real moves, which is good because the face is very much on you from the start. It is grainy, crimpy, overhung, and a bit stout at the grade (.10c).
After pulling through the crux you will be standing on a tiny ledge on the arete and looking up a shallow corner, which is a bit chossy by Donner standards. It protects though, bring .4 to 2" pieces. Climb up this corner which will end on a clean, blunt, and slabby arete. Climb past two new bolts in about 40ft of climbing. I would guess there is about 25ft between the two bolts, and the climbing isn't dead simple through here. Consensus seems to be .10a PG-13. If it was grid bolted, we would all be downgrading it I'm sure. Stay focused, and choose the path of least resistance. The rock is bulletproof. Trust your smears and edges to get through this very good head crux.
Once past the second bolt, there are a few more opportunities for pro, and the difficulties have mostly relented at this point. Find your way into the last few feet of the Touch and Go corner, which will put you on top of Lizard Ledge.
You can rap with a 70m from here using the the anchors on the climbers right of lizard ledge, the One Hand Clapping anchors. You will rap to the start of the Bliss/Skywalker anchors, and then to the ground. It is close getting to the Bliss anchors, so knot those ends.
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